Let the tasting begin!
Debra C. Argen and Edward F. Nesta
Benvenuto Brunello Anteprima 2022 celebrated tasting the future with the presentation and tasting of the 2023 release of the new vintages, Brunello 2018 and Riserva 2017 wines. Gathered at round tables with fellow oenophiles, winery representatives, and wine importers, the room was electric with anticipation of tasting the new releases.
After an informative introduction by Christy Canterbury, Master of Wine, we reviewed the wine list with wines from the 68 wineries and filled out our tasting cards noting our selections of 5 wines to be tasted at a time. Very elegant and sophisticated, white jacketed sommeliers from Il Gattopardo restaurant took our cards and came back to our table with the bottles we had selected for our first round of tasting.
With so many wonderful wines being offered, a total of 119 wines and a limit of a 3-hours tasting session, we decided to divide and conquer the wine list, by dividing the wine list in half, and then selecting at least 1 wine from each of the wineries, as some wineries presented 1-3 wines each. Even with dividing the wine list, it was an impressive number of wines to taste and experience. So how did we accomplish that? Alas, by the "4-S" method: Swirl, Sniff, Sip, and Spit, although some wines were just too delicious not to enjoy a few extra sips to fully appreciate its character and nuances.
Selecting a flight of Brunello
Judging by the age of the vintages, one might think that a 2017 Riserva or a 2018 Brunello would be ready to drink now, however not always so. These wines will still benefit from a few more years of aging, which is why it is called a futures tasting, as one is tasting the possibilities of how the wine might evolve and develop more character over the years.
Ready to taste
The Four Types of Montalcino Wines
Important to note about Brunello di Montalcino wines, is that in 1967, The Consortium of the Brunello di Montalcino received its prestigious D.O.C. designation. Interesting to note is that only four wines have the right to be produced in Montalcino with the "Protected Designation of Origin" (DOCG and DOC); Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Moscadello Di Montalcino DOC, Rosso Di Montalcino DOC, and Sant’Antimo DOC.
To further distinguish the characteristics of each, for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG the grape variety is 100% Sangiovese, with a maximum yield of 8 tons of grapes per hectare, must spend a minimum of 2 years in oak casks, followed by 4 months in a bottle, must be bottled in the production area, have a minimum alcohol content of 12.5%, and are released January 1 of the 5th year following harvest.
Another great pour
Riserva requires 2 years of aging in oak cask followed by six months in a bottle and are released the 1st of January of the 6th year following the harvest. Brunello di Montalcino wines can only be sold in Bordeaux type bottles.
The Making of Great Wine – Always a Challenge
What makes the wine so different and special from year to year goes well beyond the terroir and the style of the vineyard that distinguishes the wines of Montalcino and gives them such diverse characteristics. The challenge begins with the Sangiovese grapes that do not thrive in Montalcino, they survive, which while eliciting less fruit, the flavor is more intense, and that coupled with the varying elevations of the Montalcino region influence the results.
Keep it coming!
The climate is also an important part of understanding the possibilities for a particular vintage. Was it a rainy or a dry year? When did the rain or snow arrive? How long did it last? Was it a hot or a cold season, and at what stage of development did these factors occur? Each of these factors reflect heavily on how the results for the wine will be each year.
The Four Facings of Montalcino
Also, important to note about the Montalcino region, is that it has 4 distinct elevations with vastly different terroirs.
The North has elevations from 300-400 meters, differentiated by cool nightly breezes, generally cooler temperatures, and later harvests. It is predominantly calcareous clay and limestone mixed with rock fragments, generally steep, and leveling out to the east.
Southern elevations range from 400-500 meters, has great diurnal shifts, galestro soils with clay, salt, and limestone, with some areas having more clay and calcareous.
Southeast elevations range from 200 – 450 meters, is closest to Mount Amiata (a lava dome) and is moderated by the Orcia River.
The Southwest has elevations that range from 100-350 meters, has a warmer and drier microclimate, more undulating hills and greater percentages of clay and silt. Due to the diverse microclimates and soils, each of the four facings produce slightly different flavor profiles for their wines.
"Star Vintages" – What the Stars Mean
2018 is considered a Four-Star Vintage; winter characterized by average rainfall and some snow, which made up for the considerable lack of water. Temperatures were above the seasonal average, which lasted until the end of February, when there was a sharp drop in temperatures with snowfall that affected the whole area, and minimum temperatures reaching almost -10 degrees Celsius (14 degrees Fahrenheit).
CHEERS!
April had sporadic rainfall and minimum temperatures around 5 degrees Celsius (41 degrees Fahrenheit). May had frequent and abundant rainfall accompanied by high temperatures that allowed optimal vegetative development, due to the significant humidity accumulated in the soil.
August had weak and intermittent rainfall in the first three weeks and average temperatures of 25 degrees Celsius (86 degrees Fahrenheit). The first week of September had rainy days with maximum temperatures of 30 degrees Celsius. Harvesting waited until mid-September to October to allow foe good ripeness.
2017 is considered a Four-Star Vintage; mild, rainy winter, warm, dry March which brought early flowering. A cold April brought some frost damage, followed by a drought from May through August. There were also extreme high temperatures in July and August which caused hydric stress. Cooling temperatures and mild rains in September provided relief. Warm and sunny weather extended the growing season through late October. Reduced quantities but good quality, notable aromatics and grippy tannins.
The Wineries for Benvenuto Brunello Anteprima 2022: Tasting the future – Brunello 2018 and Riserva 2017
Let the Tasting Begin
The wines presented offered heady aromatics, lovely layers of flavors, yet with enough tannins on the palate to remind us of their "youth." Wine, as in life, always benefits with a few years of "aging" to elicit perfection.
Saluti!
To learn more about Brunello Di Montalcino wines, please visit the Consorzio Del Vino Brunello Di Montalcino website: https://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/en/home/home
Consorzio Del Vino Brunello Di Montalcino
Via Boldrini n. 1053024 Montalcino (SI)
P.IVA 00696630524
Infoline: +39-057-784-8246
Fax: +39-057-784-9425
Email: info@consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it
Website: https://www.consorziobrunellodimontalcino.it/en/home/home
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