The cuisine at the award-winning restaurant at Rathsallagh House in Dunlavin, County Wicklow, Ireland is described as New Irish Country House cooking where Head Chef John Kostuik deftly combines new and old world cuisine.
I stayed at Rathsallagh House in September 2007, and had wonderful dinners at the restaurant. During the course of my stay, I met Joe O’Flynn, who owns Rathsallagh House with his family, and Chef John Kostuik. When it comes to having all of the culinary "toys," Rathsallagh House has a treasure trove, and speaking with Joe and Chef John was like having children describe what they just received for their birthday. First of all, Rathsallagh House is the only restaurant in Ireland with a Gastrovac machine, which is an almost magical high-tech device that allows chefs to vacuum cook food at extremely low temperatures (in the Gastrovac water boils at 55° C/131°F as opposed to the normal boiling point of 100° C/212° F, and oil boils in the Gastrovac at 80°C/176° F) which maintains the integrity of the food, while infusing it with the flavors from the poaching liquid. Other top chefs using the Gastrovac include Ferran Adrià (El Bulli in Rosas, Spain) and Wylie Dufresne (wd-50 in New York, United States).
They also have a Pacojet that they like to play with, and for fun, Joe read how to convert old kitchen appliances into smokers, and they built two smokers so that they could smoke their own fish and meat. Rathsallagh House also has its own beehives, organic vegetable, herb, and salad green gardens, as well as fruit trees, and supplement whatever else they require from local producers.
Chef John Kostuik grew up in Canada, honed his craft in French technique in Toronto’s top restaurants, traveled to France and England and describes his culinary style as French flair with an Asian twist, although not fusion. An example of his culinary style is pairing foie gras with Canadian ice wine, and he has also paired foie gras with rhubarb on homemade gingerbread. Trained in the 1980s when chefs were into fusion and experimental cuisine, he enjoys using newer cooking methods including using the Gastrovac and Sous Vide techniques.
Always looking to perfect the restaurant experience at Rathsallagh House, Joe took a trip to Chicago to see how Americans age their beef, and discovered that the aging process in Ireland is around 21 days or less and that Americans tend to age their beef for longer periods of time. So, taking a note from the Americans, Joe, now has a cooler lined with Himalayan rock salt to age their beef like the Americans.
The menu at the restaurant is never printed before 5:00 pm each day, as the menu is dependant on the local fish and products available. Chef John stated that this frees him, being able to change the menu nightly, but it is also challenging, in that the recipes often evolve over the course of the night, as opposed to set recipes. This being Ireland though, diners can rest assured that there is beef on the menu almost nightly.
For Chef John, his biggest surprise in Ireland is that the game is actual game. When the game season starts, he has to warn the guests about possible buckshot because sometimes you cannot remove it all without destroying the piece of meat. He also finds that the venison in Ireland has a much stronger taste than in North America, and that seafood in Ireland is expensive, but has fabulous quality.
From his vast repertoire, Chef John Kostuik shares recipes for Rathsallagh Brown Bread, three main courses, and a dessert, which capture the flavors of Rathsallagh House.
The Menu
Szechuan Barbecued Spatchcock of Quail with Asian Coleslaw and Lemongrass Glaze
Lightly Spiced Medallions of Monkfish with Bulgar Pilaf Sea Kale, Carrot and Cumin Froth
Loin of Lamb Wrapped in Mushroom and Leek on Herb Polenta,
Confit Garlic, and Shallot Puree Thyme Jus
Rathsallagh Brown Bread
Hot Chocolate Fondant
The Rathsallagh Brown Bread is really wonderful, so I persuaded Chef John to also share this special recipe.
Rathsallagh Brown Bread
Yields: 1-2 breads
Rathsallagh Brown Bread Ingredients:
|
0.5 |
Kg (1 pound) |
Coarse Whole Wheat Flour |
|
113 |
Grams (4 ounces) |
Cream flour (pastry/soft flour) |
|
1 |
Heaping Teaspoon |
Baking Soda |
|
1 |
Teaspoon |
Salt |
|
1 |
Tablespoon |
Brown Sugar |
|
28 |
Grams (1 ounce) |
Melted Butter |
|
1 |
Pinch |
Pumpkin Seeds |
|
1 |
Pinch |
Sunflower Seeds |
|
0.5 |
Liter (17 ounces) |
Buttermilk |
Method: Mix dry ingredients together, pour in the butter, and then add the buttermilk. Mix by hand. Spoon mixture into buttered bread pans. Bake at 170° C (340° F) for approximately 1-hour. Test if done by inserting a skewer or thin knife into bread; if it comes away clean it is done. Remove from bread pan immediately or the bread will become soggy. Allow the bread to cool, and then enjoy.
Szechuan Barbecued Spatchcock of Quail with Asian Coleslaw and Lemongrass Glaze
Szechuan Barbecue Sauce Ingredients:
|
10 |
|
Shallots, sliced |
|
5 |
|
Garlic cloves, sliced |
|
250 |
Grams (8.8 ounces) |
Szechuan peppers |
|
3 |
Stalk |
Lemongrass, chopped |
|
20 |
Grams (0.7 ounces) |
Ginger, chopped |
|
500 |
Ml (17 ounces) |
Dark Treacle or Molasses |
|
500 |
Ml (17 ounces) |
Brown Sugar |
|
200 |
Ml (6.7 ounces) |
Water |
|
300 |
Ml (10 ounces) |
Cider or Sherry Vinegar |
|
2.5 |
Kg (5.5 pounds) |
Chopped Tomatoes, (tinned preferably) |
Equipment Needed:
Heavy Bottom Saucepan
Fine Sieve
Blender or Food Processor
Method: Sweat the shallots, garlic, ginger, peppercorns, and lemongrass over medium heat in about 2 teaspoons oil until shallots and garlic are translucent. Add treacle, brown sugar, and water. Increase heat to caramelize sugars, please note that everything is quite dark, so you have to judge by when the bubbles are quite thick and there is a nice caramel smell. Add vinegar and reduce until thick. Add tinned tomatoes, bring to a boil. Puree and pass through a sieve. Put back on a medium heat and reduce by half. Allow to cool before putting the meat in the marinade.
For the dish:
(1) Boned Quail, wing bones and feet trimmed
Asian Salad
Lemongrass skewer
Asian Vinaigrette
Lemongrass Glaze
Asian Slaw Ingredients:
|
1 |
|
Chinese (Knappa) Cabbage |
|
2 |
|
Red Onions, thinly sliced |
|
2 |
Teaspoons (10 grams) |
Pickled Ginger, julienned |
|
2 |
|
Carrots, julienned |
|
2 |
|
Red Peppers, julienned |
|
2 |
|
Yellow Peppers, julienned |
|
50 |
|
Coriander Leaves, chiffonnade * |
|
25 |
|
Mint Leaves, chiffonade |
|
30 |
|
Thai Basil Leaves, chiffonade |
Method: Mix all together. (Chiffonade is to cut into long, thin strips)
Asian Vinaigrette Ingredients:
|
200 |
Grams (7 ounces) |
Honey |
|
75 |
Grams (2.6 ounces) |
Red Curry Paste |
|
3 |
|
Limes, zest and juice |
|
4 |
Pieces |
Lemongrass, chopped |
|
2 |
|
Fresh Chilies, chopped or 1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon dried chili flakes (20 grams) |
|
1 |
Tablespoon + 1 teaspoon (20 grams) |
Ginger, chopped |
|
8 |
|
Shallots, sliced |
|
3 |
|
Garlic cloves, crushed |
|
6 |
Stems |
Coriander |
|
35 |
Ml (1.2 ounces) |
Soy Sauce |
|
50 |
Ml (1.7 ounces) |
Sesame Oil |
|
150 |
Ml (5 ounces) |
Rice Vinegar |
|
50 |
Ml (1.7 ounces) |
Mirin |
|
250 |
Ml (8.5 ounces) |
Peanut Oil (or vegetable oil) |
Method: Put all ingredients into a blender and puree at high speed. Slowly pour in oil to emulsify. Strain through a fine chinois.
Lemongrass Glaze Ingredients:
|
6 |
|
Shallots, chopped |
|
4 |
|
Garlic cloves, chopped |
|
10 |
Pieces |
Lemongrass, chopped |
|
10 |
|
Black Peppercorns |
|
454 |
Grams (16 ounces) |
Honey |
|
250 |
Ml (8.5 ounces) |
Rice Vinegar |
|
100 |
ML (3.3 ounces) |
Mirin |
|
350 |
Ml (11.8 ounces) |
White Wine |
|
|
|
Demi-Glace |
Method: Gently sweat shallots, garlic, lemongrass and pepper over low heat until shallots are translucent. Add honey, increase heat to caramelize. Deglaze with vinegar and reduce to syrup. Add white wine and mirin, reduce to syrup. Add demi-glace and reduce until thick. Strain through fine chinois.
Quail Method: Marinate with barbecue sauce and salt. Char grill quickly making diamonds on the skin side, turn and sear flesh side. Cut in half and skewer with a fine blade knife and then feed through the quail lemongrass skewer.
Assembly: Brush additional barbecue sauce on quail and place on baking sheet in convection oven set for 190° C (375° F) for about 5 minutes or until medium cooked. Mix Asian Slaw with vinaigrette and check for seasoning. Place slaw on the plate, place the quail on top of the slaw, and drizzle with Lemongrass Glaze (no circles, let the glaze flow freely).
Lightly Spiced Medallions of Monkfish with Bulgar Pilaf Sea Kale, Carrot and Cumin Froth
Spice Ingredients for the Monkfish:
|
200 |
Grams (7 ounces) |
Tumeric |
|
2 |
Teaspoons (10 grams) |
Cardamom |
|
2 |
Teaspoons (10 grams) |
Paprika |
|
2 |
Teaspoons (10 grams) |
Cumin |
|
100 |
Grams (3.5 ounces) |
Polenta |
|
|
|
|
Method: Roast spices, grind, and then mix with the polenta.
Bulgar Pilaf Ingredients:
|
500 |
Grams (17.6 ounces) |
Bulgar |
|
|
|
Shallots |
|
|
|
Vegetable Stock |
|
2 |
Shots |
Noilly Prat Vermouth |
Method: Soak bulgar in water overnight. Sweat off shallots, add bulgar, enough vegetable stock to cover, and Noilly Prat Vermouth. Cook until tender. Strain any excess liquor, and emulsify with butter. Reserve for reheating.
Finely chop:
Black olives
Shallots
Garlic
Cucumber
Chopped Flat Parsley
Method: Mix with bulgar when reheating.
Carrot and Cumin Foam Ingredients:
|
15 |
|
Carrots, juiced |
|
1 |
Bottle |
White Wine |
|
25 |
|
Cumin seeds |
|
350 |
Ml (11.8 ounces) |
Cream |
Method: Reduce carrot juice by ¾. Add white wine and reduce. Add cream and reduce to sauce consistency. Froth just before serving.
Loin of Lamb Wrapped in Mushroom and Leek on Herb Polenta, Confit Garlic, and Shallot Puree Thyme Jus
Mushroom Duxelle Ingredients:
Method: Chop mushrooms, chop thyme, chop onion in small dice. Sweat off onions and mushrooms until cooked, and then add cream and thyme. Strain and reduce cream, and then blend in robot coupe (or food processor) to desired consistency.
Chicken Mousse Ingredients:
|
0.5 |
Kg (1 pound) |
Chicken fillet |
|
250 |
Ml (8.5 ounces) |
Cream |
|
1 |
|
Egg |
Method: Blend ingredients together, season, and pass through a fine sieve. Mix duxelle and mousse together.
Loin of Lamb Method: Blanch leeks in long strips, chill, and dry between two tea towels on a tray. Sear the lamb in a hot frying pan with a small amount of oil, and chill. Roll lamb in corn flour, wrap in chicken mousse, and then in leek strips. Wrap tightly in cling film (plastic wrap).
Puree of Garlic and Shallot Method: Confit garlic and shallot until soft, strain, and liquidize with some vegetable stock. Reheat with duck fat and fresh thyme.
Herb Polenta Ingredients:
|
340 |
Grams (12 ounces) |
Polenta |
|
56.7 |
Grams (2 ounces) |
Butter |
|
3 |
|
Egg Yolks |
|
28 |
Grams (1 ounce) |
Parmesan |
|
28 |
Grams (1 ounce) |
Mascarpone |
|
0.7 |
Liter (1.5 pints) |
Milk |
|
|
|
Garlic, Nutmeg |
|
|
|
Chopped Parsley, Rosemary, Tarragon, Chervil) |
Boil milk with butter, nutmeg, and garlic. Add polenta and cook, finish with herbs and cheese. Spread flat on a tray lined with cling film (plastic wrap).
Thyme Jus Method: Reduce some port with mirepoix* (*diced onions, celery, and carrots), add lamb stock, pass through a sieve and reduce to desired consistency, and finish with fresh thyme to serve.
Hot Chocolate Fondant
Ingredients:
|
18 |
|
Eggs |
|
400 |
Grams (14 ounces) |
Sugar |
|
120 |
Grams (4 ounces) |
Flour |
|
600 |
Grams (21 ounces) |
Chocolate |
|
500 |
Grams (17.6 ounces) |
Butter |
Method: Melt chocolate and butter, mix together. Add flour, stir, add sugar, stir, and then add the eggs one at a time until incorporated. Allow the mix to set for about 6 hours. Line ring molds with parchment paper, fill 2/3 full and bake at 170° C (340° F) for about 9-12 minutes. Start to check cakes after 9 minutes. They are done when a firm crust has developed on top, (they will still be runny inside). Serve warm.
Read other articles on Rathsallagh House in the Hotels and Resorts, Restaurants, and Adventures sections.
Rathsallagh House
Dunlavin
County Wicklow, Ireland
Telephone: +353-45-40-3112
Fax: +353-45-40-3343
Email: info@rathsallagh.com
www.Rathsallagh.com
Please read other articles on Ireland in the Destinations section including: County Cork and County Wexford, Ireland and County Clare and County Kerry, Ireland, Hotels and Resorts, Restaurants, Chefs’ Recipes, Spas, Liquor Cabinet: Celtic Crossing Liqueur, Boru Vodka, Knappogue Castle Irish Whiskey, Fashion, and Adventures sections.
For information on Ireland, please visit the website: Discover Ireland, www.DiscoverIreland.com or call them at +1-800-223-6470. For driving directions in Ireland, visit www.AAIreland.com.
For information on Aer Lingus, please visit the website: Aer Lingus, www.AerLingus.com.
© February 2008. Luxury Experience. www.LuxuryExperience.com All rights reserved.
