The Michelin-star, 18 GaultMillau rated HUGOS Restaurant at the InterContinental Berlin provides guests with stunning panoramic city skylights to complement the cuisine of Chef Thomas Kammeier.
The attractive HUGOS Restaurant sits high above Berlin on the 14th floor of the InterContinental Berlin offering guests incredible views from the rooftop of the hotel. Edward F. Nesta and I spent a wonderful evening at HUGOS Restaurant in March 2008, beginning with a pre-dinner aperitif of Moët & Chandon champagne in the stylish HUGOS Bar.
Adjourning to the restaurant, we sat at a prime corner table next to the wall of windows where we had 180-degree views of Berlin with the city lights sparkling below like diamonds glistening against the inky sky. Sheer, white Roman shades adorned the windows, brown leather and black cane and wood arm chairs flanked the tables dressed with pristine white linens, square glass and gold stripe charger plates, white rolled napkins in glass buckle napkin rings, white pots arranged with irises, greenish-white carnations, and asparagus ferns, and square candle holders illuminating the room with tea lights.
There was a long table dividing the dining room with two tall flute glasses holding yellow tulips and white calla lilies. Black and white large-scale photographs hung at opposite ends of the room, and there were contemporary art pieces throughout the restaurant.
We indulged in a HUGOS Cocktail, a delectable libation that was a blend of Peachtree Liqueur, Cranberry juice, Rhubarb, and Champagne before we began our gastronomic evening. Leaving our appetites in the talented hands of Chef Thomas Kammeier, we eagerly looked forward to tasting what he would prepare for us, as we sampled a selection of homemade breads.
The first arrival of the evening was a selection of three Amuse Bouches: a triangle of herb cream cheese with ratatouille, a glass of tasty Potato Soup, and smoked eel on pickled vegetables, that were beautifully presented on a rectangular glass plate with three recesses. Paired with a glass of champagne, this was a lovely introduction to Chef Kammeier's vision.
When the waiter arrived moments later with a mother of pearl spoon, I knew that there was something wonderful coming. The next tasting was a generous mound of Iranian caviar on sliced hot potato rounds with chive cream and sprinkled with minced chives; and from the first taste of the caviar paired with the creamy potatoes, it was like the memorable moment at the restaurant in the film "When Harry Met Sally." This was a dream of a dish especially when paired with the champagne.
The third tempting morsel arrived, a sensational lobster fantasy with lobster carpaccio on a rectangle of herb jelly, crowned with herb salad, and enhanced with coriander pistou; curry coconut foam; and succulent lobster claw meat on a bed of mango with a line of coriander pistou adding visual interest on the plate. This course was paired with a 2007 Pouilly-Fumé, Hubert Brochard, Sauvignon Blanc, 12.5% alc. with citrus, as well as pear, slate, and mineral, earthy notes.
We continued with char and lemongrass, pooled with a rich sea of sweet citrus foam with lettuce hearts served with tiny croutons. This course was well paired with a 2006 Schwarz from Germany with a nice balance of acidity, an earthy nose, and white peaches on the palate.
Sitting by the window provided us with a changing tableau of the city of Berlin that was like the backdrop of a play starring Chef Thomas Kammeier with his culinary presentations taking center stage. The restaurant is stunning, the service impeccable, and the clientele attractive.
For our next course, we had sole that was delicately golden and presented on a bed of brunoise carrots and ginger, and accentuated with drops of coriander oil, followed by scallops in bouillabaisse with saffron and wearing a jaunty Parmesan hat, that was an especially nice dish.
The fried turbot was another course in perfection with olive and artichoke fondue with balsamic, paired with a 2004 Tiglat Chardonnay from Velich, Austria with vanilla and floral notes.
The last savory course of the evening was an attractive tower of codfish with thinly sliced tomatoes, topped with tuna herbal salad and fish foam on a creamy bed of garlic and herb risotto.
To quote Mac Talla Mór, one of our favorite Celtic bands, "resistance is futile" so when Chef Thomas Kammeier appeared at our table bearing dessert, we allowed ourselves to totally succumb to the enchanting trio of delicious blood orange desserts: a round semolina dumpling dusted with confectionary sugar and arranged with fanned blood orange fillets; blood orange syrup with nougat foam garnished with a mint leaf; and a quenelle of vanilla ice cream with a chocolate Florentine garnish.
The sommelier expertly paired the desserts with a 1997 Château Saint-Amand, Sauternes, 14% alc. from France, which had a golden apricot color, light floral nose, rich fruit and honey notes on the palate, that was delicious and not overly sweet, with a long, satisfying finish.
As a grand finale to our evening, a sweets trolley arrived and we just had to sample a few of the delicious offerings. Having dinner at HUGOS Restaurant was not only a feast for the palate the scenery was a treat for the eyes.
Read other articles on HUGOS Restaurant and the InterContinental Berlin in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts, Chefs' Recipes where Chef Thomas Kammeier shares a few of his recipes in English and German from his new cookbook, Thomas Kammeier The Cookbook, and in the Luxury Products sections.
Please note that HUGOS Restaurant is open Monday through Saturday from 6:00 pm until 10:30 pm, and is closed from July 21 until August 21, 2008.
10787 Berlin, Germany
Restaurant Telephone: +49 30 2602 1263
Hotel Telephone: +49 30 26020
Fax: +49 30 26022600
Read other articles on Germany in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts, Spas, Restaurants, Chefs' Recipes, and Performances sections.
For information on Berlin and Germany, please visit the websites, www.Berlin-Tourist-Information.com and www.ComeToGermany.com.
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