Postcards from A Gastronomic Visit to Burgundy, France

Burgundy, France is more than a mere destination, it a gastronomic experience, an exploration for the senses to discover the food and the wines for which they are famous, the culture, and the history that makes the region so special. This was our second time visiting and falling in love with the Burgundy region and we cannot wait to return for a third time!

Where to Stay – Domaine de Cromey 

Domaine de Cromey – Burgundy, France

Magical, is the word that immediately comes to mind to describe our stay at Domaine de Cromey, a luxurious Manor House located in St. Sernin du Plain, France. Although only 1-hour and 17-minutes by high-speed TGV train from Paris Gare de Lyon station to Le Creusot-Montceau station, the Burgundy region is a world away from bustling Paris, the capital of France.

Guest Room

With its focus on gastronomy and wine, six sumptuous and luxuriously appointed guestrooms for a maximum of 12 guests, a gourmet chef, seasonal heated swimming pool, and professional and attentive service, arranged tours by the expert and knowledgeable Domaine de Cromey team to visit the neighboring towns and vineyards, the answer is yes, what is the question.

Baked Oysters

To read more about our stay at Domaine de Cromey, please visit the Hotels and Resorts section: https://luxuryexperience.com/featured/domaine-de-cromey-st-sernin-du-plain-france/

For additional information on Domaine de Cromey, as well as rates, please visit their website: https://www.domainedecromey.com

Domaine de Cromey
4 rue d Chateau
Cromey Le Haut
St. Sernin du Plain
France 71510
Email: enquiry@domainedecromey.com
Website: https://www.domainedecromey.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DomainedeCromey
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/domainedecromey/  @domaindecromey
Burgundy Wine Website: https://www.burgundywine.com/
Burgundy Wine Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EldenSelections?fref=ts
Burgundy Wine Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/burgundywinedotcom
Instagram: @bugundywinedotcom

Restaurants – Where To Dine – St. Sernin du Plain

The Restaurant at Domaine de Cromey

Gastronomy and wine are the heartbeat of Burgundy, and it is also the focus of the owners, Eleanor Garvin, a chef and cookbook author, and Dennis Sherman, a wine educator, wine historian, and purveyor of fine wines at Elden Selections.

Dining Room

For the fortunate guests staying at their luxurious Manor House, Domaine de Cromey, meals are always memorable beginning with hearty breakfasts, continuing with elegant lunches, with ending with lavish multi-course gastronomic dinners.

Magret de Canard

A few of memorable dinner highlights created by Chef Joss Rober during our stay included Magret de Canard (duck), Braised Red Cabbage, Celeriac Purée, Haricot Blancs, and Roasted Potimarron (a type of squash); the Burgundian classic – Boeuf Bourguignon served with Tagliatelle au Basilic; and Filet de Truite (trout), Pétanque Scallops, Beurre Blanc, with Black Rice and Petits Légumes (vegetables).

Chef Joss Rober – 15th Century Pizza Oven

For the cheese (fromage) course there was always an excellent selection of cheeses, and the desserts were the perfect finishing touch. Each of the wine pairings provided interesting information about the vineyards, winemakers, and the wines.

Aiofe Field with the cheese course

A few of the memorable wines we enjoyed during our stay included the Domaine Gilles Bouton Saint-Aubin 1er Cru “Champlots” 2022, ($84 bottle), Domaine Gilles Bouton Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘La Garenne’ 2022 ($147 bottle), and Capitain—Gagnerot Aloxe-Corton 1er Cru ‘Les Moutottes’ 2022 ($117 bottle).

Read more about our dining experience at Domaine de Cromey in the Restaurants section.

For additional information on Domaine de Cromey, as well as rates, please visit their website: https://www.domainedecromey.com

Domaine de Cromey
4 rue d Chateau
Cromey Le Haut
St. Sernin du Plain
France 71510
Email: enquiry@domainedecromey.com
Website: https://www.domainedecromey.com
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/DomainedeCromey
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/domainedecromey/  @domaindecromey
Burgundy Wine Website: https://www.burgundywine.com/
Burgundy Wine Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/EldenSelections?fref=ts
Burgundy Wine Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/burgundywinedotcom
Instagram: @bugundywinedotcom

Exploring Burgundy

The Burgundy region offers much to experience whether you have a gastronomic, wine, cultural, or history focus. The towns are charming and must be experienced to be fully appreciated. Here are a few of the places worth exploring.

Exploring Vineyards

Exploring Vineyards of Burgundy, France

During our stay at Domaine de Cromey, Daniel Jones gave us expert guided tours to experience wines in the vineyards right next to the terroir that makes them so special. We also visited plots that are home to some of the most expensive wines in the world. At each stop Daniel provided information on the area and in some cases a history lesson on how individual plots have evolved. Some of the vineyard plots we visited were Bruno Colin – Puligny-Montrachet – Premier Cru – Les Demoiselles, Montrachet Marquie de Laguiche Grand Cru, and Les Demoiselles – Famille Colin.

Montrachet Marquie de Laguiche

We also toured the areas overlooking villages and their associated vineyards to discuss what makes that area special, and in some cases we sampled wine from that area. The views were breathtaking, and seeing some of the quaint villages from atop a cliff added nuances to the exquisite wines we experienced.

Spectacular view of villages

Some of the wines we sampled in their respective vineyards were Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravieres, Jean-Baptiste Ponsot – Rully 2022, Saint-Aubin Preier Cru “Les Murgers dos Dents de Chien,” and Saint-Romain – Domaine Germain Pere & Fils 2022. It was special to see the distinct plot of land where the wine we were drinking came from and to discuss what made that wine so unique.

Santenay 1er Cru Les Gravieres

We discovered that you could have a picnic lunch in some of the vineyards as there are tables available. You can also rent bikes and do a tour through the vineyards and experience the area at your own pace, and of course bring a bottle of burgundy wine, a wine opener, cheese and bread and a memorable day awaits you.

Bike Riders Burgundy Vineyards

Winemaker – Domaine Tawse – Nuits-Saint-Georges

Winemaker Pasca Marchand

In addition to touring the vineyards, we visited Domaine Tawse in Nuits-Saint-Georges and toured their wine caves, watched how the bottling and label process worked and most of all, we visited their tasting area to sample their wines and to meet with the Winemaker Pascal Marchand. As the story goes, “Pascal Marchand, the French-Canadian boy wonder, who in 1985 at 22 years old, took over Clos des Epeneaux in Pommard and became an overnight sensation, and has pretty much defined modern Burgundy.”

Marchand Tawse Cellar

We sampled some outstanding wines during our visit, such as: Nuits-Saint-Georges 2021, Beaune 1er Cru 2020, Savigny Les Beaune 1er Cru 2020, Pommard Les Saussilles 2020, Volnay 1er Cru “Les Fremiets” 2022, Morey-Saint-Denis Premier Cru 2013, Bourgogne Aligoé 2021, Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Les Vergelesse 2021, and their Pomance Brandy at 45.5% abv – Vieux Marc De Bourgogne.

Marchand Tawse Pommard Les Saussilles 2020

To learn more about Domaine Tawse and their wines, please visit their website: www.Marchand-Tawse.com

Marchand Tawse et Domaine Tawse
Cellar Address
4 et 9 Julie Godemoet BP76
21700 Nuits-Saint-Georges, France

Headquarters
3 Avenue de l’aigue
2100 Beaune, France
Telephone: +33 (0)3 80 20 37 32
Email: contact@marchandtawse.com
Website: www.Marchand-Tawse.com
Instagram: @marchand_tawse
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pascal.marchand.94

Château du Clos de Vougeort

Château du Clos de Vougeot

Another exciting trip that Daniel took us on was a visit to Chateau du Close de Vougeort. The château was built in the 12^th century by monks from the nearby Abbey of Cîteaux and holds over 900 years of history to be experienced. We visited the Cistercian cellar that houses three 12^th century wine presses as well as the original kitchen, which is still used for the many parties that are held at the Château.

Edward F. Nesta & Debra C. Argen – 12th Century Wine Press

The Cistercians created Burgundy’s largest wall-surrounded vineyard, the Clos de Vougeort, in 1336. They developed the concept of terroir, which is the idea that the environment in which wine is produced gives it its unique character. The understanding of terroir resulted in different areas (plots) being marked off denoting which areas produced better wine. The Cistercians also created the “cru” system for French wine classification that recognizes vineyards and wines of high quality (ex. Grand Cru, Premier Cru).

Château du Clos de Vougeot Statue

The Cistercians were known for their scientific approach to winemaking, and they kept meticulous records to pass on to future generations. Many of the areas they denoted to a specific wine classifications retain that denomination to this day.

Château du Clos de Vougeot Vineyards

While the Chateau do Clos de Vougeot does not produce wine anymore, it remains the symbol of a millenary of Burgundy History. The Chateau was acquired by the distinguished Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastervin who turned it into the seat of the Order. The Order has over 12,000 members across 75 sous-commanderies (subcommanderies) around the world. The Chevaliers du Tastevin meet regularly at Château du Clos de Vougeot to celebrate the wines of Burgundy with elaborate parties.

Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Cup

To learn more about Château du Clos de Vougeot please visit their website: www.closdevougeot.fr

Château du Clos de Vougeot
Rue de la Montagne
21640 Vougeot, France
Telephone Visits: +33 3 80 62 86 09
Telephone Receptions: +33 3 80 62 82 84
Website: www.tastevin-Bourgogne.com
Website: www.closdevougeot.fr
Instagram: @chateau_clos_vougeot
Facebook: www.facebook.com/closdevougeot

Exploring Autun 

Autun, France – Medieval Tower

Autun is located about 53 miles (85 km) from Dijon and has a rich history that dates to medieval times that makes it an important tourist site. We had an excellent guided tour with Olivier Thoriny, a former teacher. One of the many interesting facts that we learned is that Autun is designated an art city. To achieve that designation, a city must have contemporary art as well as medieval and historical art.

Cathedral Saint-Lazare

We visited Cathédral Saint-Lazare an architectural and Roman Catholic religious treasure built between 1120 and 1130. The exterior features The Last Judgment tympanum created by the French sculptor Gislebertus between 1130 – 1135 (he died in 1135) that is astounding in its detail. Olivier noted that the work was covered with a layer of plaster in 1766, when the canons decided it was ugly. In 1837, another canon had the plaster removed and uncovered this impressive work of art. Important to note is the pictorial story of heaven and hell depicted in his work, along with the symbols of the zodiac that surround the outside of the work. We also visited the inside of the cathedral to appreciate its impressive glass windows.

Cathédral Saint-Lazare Hours: Monday through Saturday from 10:00 am until 5:00 pm.

Note: April 1, 2025, until October 31, 2025, hours are from 10:00 am until 6:00 pm Monday through Saturday, and from 2:00 pm until 5:00 pm on Sunday. Open year round except for masses, weddings, funerals, and special events.

Cathédral Saint-Lazare
Place du Terreau
71400 Autun, France
Website: https://www.burgundy-tourism.com/religious-monuments/cathedrale-saint-lazare

Exploring Beaune

Beaune Musée Galerie

Beaune is a charming city with cobblestoned streets and is located between Lyon and Dijon, where historic landmarks enchant and delight the eye. It is renowned not only for its beauty but also for the wine of the region and is the home of the prestigious wine auction that has been held annually on the third Sunday in November since 1859 at the Hospices de Beaune.

Hospices de Beaune

Interesting to note is that Nicolas Rollin, chancellor of Burgundy, and his wife Guigone de Salins, founded the Hospices de Beaune as a hospital for the poor in 1443 and remained as a hospital until 1971. Touring the Hospices de Beaune was a memorable experience learning about its history as well as learning more about their famous wine auction.

Hospices de Beaune

Hospices de Beaune Hours: Open daily from 9:00 am until 12:30 pm and from 2:00 pm until 6:30 pm.

For more information and for admission rates, on the Hospices de Beaune please visit their website: www.hospices-de-beaune.com

Hospices de Beaune
2 rue de l’Hôtel Dieu
21200 Beaune, France
Telephone: +33 (0)3 80 24 47 00
Email: hospices.beaune@ch-beaune.fr
Website: www.hospices-de-beaune.com
Website: https://musee.hospices-de-beaune.com/
@beauneburgundy
Facebook: www.facebook.com/beaunetourisme
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoteldieu_hospicesdebeaune

Exploring Dijon

Rub the Owl for luck – Dijon, France

The Owl is the symbol of Dijon, and you will find owl images on buildings along Rue de la Chouette (Street of the Owl), on food items throughout the city, and it is also the local football team. Tradition holds that if you rub the owl at the corner of the Church of Notre-Dame of Dijon, the oldest church in Dijon, with your left hand your wishes will come true. Of course, we followed tradition and are waiting to see if our wishes come true.

Dijon Mustard

Dijon is the home of the famous French mustard, and a visit to the purveyors’ shops is a must. We brought several crocks home with us to remember our trip whenever we cook with it.

Les Halles de Dijon market

Les Halles de Dijon is a food lovers paradise, and we loved sampling the vast selection of cheeses, olives, tapenades, and artisanal breads. It is where locals buy their fresh produce, seafood, meat, and another famous Burgundian specialty – escargot (snails). They sell the escargot ready to bake and filled with a mixture of butter, garlic, and parsley.

Les Halles de Dijon market – photo by Luxury Experience

Les Halles de Dijon Hours: Tuesdays, Thursdays (indoor market only only), Fridays, and Saturdays from 7:00 am until 1:00 pm. There are entrances at Rue Odebert, Rue Quentin, and Rue Bannelier.

Les Halles de Dijon market

History abounds throughout Dijon, and we enjoyed strolling its streets soaking up the architecture and its culture at the Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy located at 1 rue Rameau, that dates to the 14^th and 15^th centuries. It is the home of City Hall, as well as the Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts).

Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy

To appreciate the cultural and affluent Dijon, we visited Musée Magnin, a 17^th century mansion that opened as a museum in 1938. Architecturally stunning, the museum has a spectacular collection of paintings, sculptures, and furnishings that speak volumes about the lives of the Magnin family. 

Musée National Magnin Exhibit

Musée Magnin Hours: Tuesday through Sunday from 10:00 am until 12:30 pm, and from 1:30 pm until 6:00 pm. Admission is free for self-guided tours. Guided tours are available for a fee. The museum is closed on Mondays, the 25^th of December, and the 1^st of January.

Musée National Magnin Exhibit

For more information on Musée Magnin, please visit their website: https://musee-magnin.fr/en

Musée Magnin
Hôtel Lantin
4 rue des Bons Enfants
21000 Dijon, France
Telephone: +33 3 80 67 11 10
Email: contact.magnin@culture.gouv.fr
Website: https://musee-magnin.fr/en
Instagram: @musee.marnin.officiel

Restaurants – Where To Dine in Dijon

We had an excellent lunch at Le Pré aux Clercs located in the heart of this historic city that is the capital of the Bourgogne-Franche-Comté region. This stylish and attractive restaurant has an enviable wine list of excellent wines to pair with their well-prepared and presented cuisine.

Roasted Brittany Blue Ling

A few of the highlights from our lunch included a first course of Blackcurrant Salmon Gravlax, Citrus Lemon, and Pistachio Crumble; a second course of Roasted Brittany Blue Ling was presented on a velouté of celery with cardamom and black garlic juice, followed by a dessert of Pear Poached in Red Wine with Burgundy Cream of Blackcurrant, and Roasted Hazelnut Burst.

Poached Pear in Red Wine

Wine is an integral part of the Burgundy experience, and our pairing wines included P&L Borgeot, Grand Vin De Bourgogne, Santenay 1er Cru, Clos des Beauregards, 2020, Domaine Prunier-Damy, Volnay Les Pluchots, 2019, and Domaine Michel Lafarge, Volnay, Clos des Chênes, 2005.

Read more about our dining experience at Le Pré aux Clercs in the Restaurants section: https://luxuryexperience.com/featured/le-pre-aux-clercs-dijon-france/

Le Pré aux Clercs Hours: Monday through Friday from 12:00 until 1:45 pm, and 7:00 pm until 9:30 pm. Saturday and Sunday from 12:00 pm until 2:15 pm, and 7:00 pm until 9:30 pm.

For more information on Le Pré aux Clercs, please visit their website: www.lepreauxclercs.fr

Le Pré aux Clercs
13 Place de Libération
21000, Dijon, France
Telephone: 03-80-38-05-05
Email: contact@lepreauxclercs.fr
Website: www.lepreauxclercs.fr
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/lepreauxclercsdijon/?locale=fr_FR
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/preauxclercs_dijon/

We loved our second time visiting Burgundy, France, as it is a destination that deserves many a visit with all that it offers and we cannot wait to return and experience more of its charm, history, and of course, its excellent wine and food.

Until next time, keep enjoying travel with Luxury Experience!

A bientôt a Bourgogne (See you in Burgundy)!

English- French Dictionary

While many people speak English, it is always a great idea to learn or familiarize yourself with the language of the country that you are visiting. We put together a comprehensive list of words and phrases to help you prepare for, and enjoy, your upcoming trip. Bon voyage!

Getting Around

 At the Hotel

 At the Restaurant – Food and Drink – Reading the Menu

 Friends and Family

Days of the Week, Months, Time, and Weather

Numbers

Health Problems

 Medical Assistance

Read more about Burgundy in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts: Domaine de Cromey, St. Sernin du Plain, France, Restaurants – The Restaurant at Domaine de Cromey, Restaurants – Le Pré aux Clercs, Dijon, France, Luxury Products – Gifts – At Home in Burgundy – The Papillion Recipes by Elanor Garvin, Wine Cellar, and Gastronomy sections.

For more information on the Elden Selections wines or to purchase them, please visit the Website: BurgundyWine.com

For more information on visiting Burgundy:
Website: https://www.bourgogne-tourisme.com/
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/bourgogne.tourisme
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/MyBourgogne/ @mybourgogne|
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/user/CRTBourgogne

You might also like to read about our stay in Paris in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts, Restaurants, and Arts sections.

For more information on visiting France, please visit the websites: Atout-France:  https://www.atout-france.fr/fr and Paris je T’Aime: https://parisjetaime.com/eng

Paris je T’Aime Tourist Office
Website: https://parisjetaime.com/eng
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/p.infos/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/parisjetaime/ @parisjetaime

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