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Black Truffle Night with Christian and Peter Urbani
It’s black truffle season as I savoringly write about this brief, but wonderful season. Truffles, those funny shriveled up balls of intense flavor that create excitement in the hearts of the truffle hunters, (wild boars, canines and man, of course) are not mushrooms! According to Peter Urbani, “the truffle is one part tuber, one part fungus and one part vegetable”, to which I add and 100% delicious! Peter and Christian Urbani should certainly know a thing or two about truffles; their family has been in the truffle business for over 200 years! One thing that invited guests learned at this dinner, much like everything else in the world, if the price seems to be too inexpensive, it is probably not the real thing. Real black truffles cost anywhere from $1,200 - $2,000 per pound, so if you see a “bargain” at $30 - $80 per pound, you can be assured that these are “imposter” truffles. Rare White Truffles are $3,000+ per pound!
On March 4, 2005, the Italian Culinary Center, www.italiancookingandliving.com, 302 Fifth Avenue, in New York, hosted Black Truffle Night with Christian and Peter Urbani, a decadent evening celebrating the joys of truffles from appetizers to desserts, where all of the courses had some form of black truffle in them. The brothers Urbani are more than just truffle experts, they are talented, dedicated chefs, who shared their knowledge of truffles with the ICC audience through their cooking demonstration and their humor, (as evidenced in the descriptions of their recipes, which I include exactly as they wrote them, that they graciously share with Luxury Experience Magazine readers.)
The Menu
Prosecco di Valdobbiadene
Oysters Florentine with Moscato,
Thyme Butter & Black Truffles
Sardus Pater, Albus 2003
Foie Gras & Black Truffles with Egg Crème
Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots
Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Leone Rosso, 2002
“La Dolce Vita” Crèpes with Truffle Honey & fresh Berries
Espresso & Grappa D’Uva Bertagnolli
Oysters Florentine with Moscato, Thyme Butter & Black Truffles were the perfect starter but alas, there were only three of these tender beauties served on the half shell with a delicate and delicious Moscato beurre blanc sauce and finished with grated Tartufi Neri. I could have easily have eaten nine more of these and called it a night. The Sardus Pater, Albus 2003 that accompanied the oysters had a lemony nose, with a citrusy, crisp and dry finish on the palate.
The Foie Gras & Black Truffles with Egg Crème was the ultimate “Martini”. This course was layered poached egg, squares of foie gras, and then finished with an extravagant amount of shaved truffles and served in a martini glass. I went straight for the ultimate decadence, and ate all the truffles off the top, and skipped the foie gras and the egg, although Edward F. Nesta, and our other dinner companions, Amelia and Richard, an attorney who lives in New York, and Amelia’s brother, Paul and sister-in-law Sonia, who came from California to the dinner, loved the complete dish.
Next on the truffle journey was Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots that was extremely flavorful as well as spicy eliciting a “mouth hot”. This dish was accompanied by a Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Leone Rosso, 2002, a full bodied chewy Tuscan wine with a deep rich plum color, a fragrant nose, and dense with spice and black cherries en bouche that held its own against this dish.
The dinner ended with “La Dolce Vita” Crèpes with Truffle Honey and fresh Berries and finished with shaved truffles accompanied by Espresso and Grappa D’Uva Bertagnolli, which was a very smooth grappa that warmed the guests who prepared to go out into the very cold New York night.
Some truffle facts that you might find interesting: there are many types of truffles in the world, but only 20 are commonly known. According to Italian law, only 9 are considered important truffles from Italy; of these, only 4 are used in cooking. These highly valuable truffles include: White Truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico, which season is from October 1 until December 31), Black Truffle (Tuber Melanosporum Vitt, November 15 – March 15), Summer Black Truffle also called Scorzone (Tuber Aestivum Vitt, May 1 – November 30) and Bianchetti or Small White Truffle (Tuber Albidium Pico, January 15 – April 30). According to Peter Urbani, the best truffles come from Umbria, and both chefs believe that truffle oil is overused and should be only used as an accent.
The Recipes
Warm New England Oysters Florentine with Moscato, Thyme Butter and Grated Tartufi Neri
Ingredients for 4 people
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24
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beautiful oysters
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60
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grams
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tartufi neri
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2
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ounces
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finely chopped shallots
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7
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ounces
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spinach, cleaned
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8¾
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ounces
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cold butter, cubes
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cracked black pepper
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sea salt
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2
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cups
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Moscato
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1
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teaspoons
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lemon juice
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Carefully open the oysters, reserving the juice. In a deep skillet, wilt the spinach with a knob of butter, and season.
Beurre Blanc au Moscato: Reduce 1 cup of Moscato with the shallots in a thick sauté pan, and reduce by half. Strain through a fine mesh. Return the strained juice to the pan. Remove from heat, and whisk in the knobs of butter. Add 1 teaspoon the reserved oyster juice and the lemon juice. Season, and set aside.
Warm the remaining Moscato in a separate sauté pan. When it simmers, add the oysters, and bring to a boil. (Do not cook them only warm them.) Remove from the heat, and store in a towel to keep warm. Transfer spinach to a plate, arrange the oysters on top, and pour the sauce over them. Sprinkle with raw shallots and sexy black truffles.
Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots
Even though the word “ragout” comes from the French word “ragouter”, meaning “to get your mouth all hot and bothered”, we will look further than that at this country Italian dish.
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2
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pounds
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raw rabbit loin, cubes (live if you like and are into that sort of thing)
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1
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cup
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flour
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salt and freshly ground black pepper
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2
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tablespoons
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olive oil
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½
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cup
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diced white onion
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½
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cup
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diced white carrot
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½
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cup
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peeked, diced red new potato
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½
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cup
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Roma tomatoes
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2
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tablespoons
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chopped shallots
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2
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tablespoons
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chopped garlic
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4
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cups
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rabbit truffle demi (see other recipe). You could also use any other kind of demi, but it wouldn’t be as good as mine.
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Dredge the rabbit in flour, shaking off excess flour. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté the rabbit over medium heat until golden, about 2 minutes, or 2 minutes is you are Italian. Add the onions, carrots, potato, tomatoes, shallots and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Add the stock/demi, and reduce by half. Add 2 tablespoons of butter, and taste. Now enjoy.
Truffle Rabbit Stock
Makes 2 quarts
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3
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pounds
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Briar Patch Rabbit bones
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2
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ounces
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tomato paste
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2
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cups
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chopped onion
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1
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cup
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chopped celery
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1
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cup
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chopped carrots
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7
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ounces
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truffle juice
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3
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cups
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dry red wine (1 cup is for the chef to drink, use only 2 for the stock)
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1
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teaspoon
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salt
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10
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garlic cloves
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For the Bouquet Garni: (tie contents in a bundle of cheesecloth)
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2
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sprigs
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thyme
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2
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bay leaves
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10
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peppercorns
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3
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sprigs
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parsley
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6
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quarts
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bottled Italian water, you could use normal water of you like
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Brown the bones in a 350° F oven for 30 minutes. Lather the bones with the tomato paste. Add the onion, carrot and celery in a pile under the bones. Roast for another 30 minutes. Remove from the onion, and transfer to the stovetop over medium heat. Deglaze the pan with the wine, and mix with a wooden spoon. Now put everything (roasting pan contents and remaining stuff) in a large stock pan, and bring to a boil. Skim the surface for rafts that rise up. Reduce for 2 hours. Strain the stock through a fine mesh, and chill for 8 hours or overnight. Remove any fat rafts from the surface. (Will keep for up to 3 days in the fridge or up to 1 month in the freezer. You can always freeze stock in ice cube trays and put in gallon Ziplock bags for easy use.
© May 2005. Luxury Experience Magazine. www.luxuryexperience.com. All rights reserved.
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