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Black Truffle Night PDF Print E-mail
Written by Debra C. Argen   

Shaving TrufflesBlack Truffle Night with Christian and Peter Urbani

 

 

It’s black truffle season as I savoringly write about this brief, but wonderful season. Truffles, those funny shriveled up balls of intense flavor that create excitement in the hearts of the truffle hunters, (wild boars, canines and man, of course) are not mushrooms! According to Peter Urbani, “the truffle is one part tuber, one part fungus and one part vegetable”, to which I add and 100% delicious! Peter and Christian Urbani should certainly know a thing or two about truffles; their family has been in the truffle business for over 200 years! One thing that invited guests learned at this dinner, much like everything else in the world, if the price seems to be too inexpensive, it is probably not the real thing. Real black truffles cost anywhere from $1,200 - $2,000 per pound, so if you see a “bargain” at $30 - $80 per pound, you can be assured that these are “imposter” truffles. Rare White Truffles are $3,000+ per pound!

Shaving TrufflesOn March 4, 2005, the Italian Culinary Center, www.italiancookingandliving.com, 302 Fifth Avenue, in New York, hosted Black Truffle Night with Christian and Peter Urbani, a decadent evening celebrating the joys of truffles from appetizers to desserts, where all of the courses had some form of black truffle in them. The brothers Urbani are more than just truffle experts, they are talented, dedicated chefs, who shared their knowledge of truffles with the ICC audience through their cooking demonstration and their humor, (as evidenced in the descriptions of their recipes, which I include exactly as they wrote them, that they graciously share with Luxury Experience Magazine readers.)

The Menu

Prosecco di Valdobbiadene

Oysters Florentine with Moscato,
Thyme Butter & Black Truffles

Sardus Pater, Albus 2003

Foie Gras & Black Truffles with Egg Crème
Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots

Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Leone Rosso, 2002

“La Dolce Vita” Crèpes with Truffle Honey & fresh Berries
Espresso & Grappa D’Uva Bertagnolli

Oysters Florentine with Moscato, Thyme Butter & Black Truffles were the perfect starter but alas, there were only three of these tender beauties served on the half shell with a delicate and delicious Moscato beurre blanc sauce and finished with grated Tartufi Neri. I could have easily have eaten nine more of these and called it a night. The Sardus Pater, Albus 2003 that accompanied the oysters had a lemony nose, with a citrusy, crisp and dry finish on the palate.

Urbani Brothers and Maria NotarnicolaThe Foie Gras & Black Truffles with Egg Crème was the ultimate “Martini”. This course was layered poached egg, squares of foie gras, and then finished with an extravagant amount of shaved truffles and served in a martini glass. I went straight for the ultimate decadence, and ate all the truffles off the top, and skipped the foie gras and the egg, although Edward F. Nesta, and our other dinner companions, Amelia and Richard, an attorney who lives in New York, and Amelia’s brother, Paul and sister-in-law Sonia, who came from California to the dinner, loved the complete dish.

Next on the truffle journey was Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots that was extremely flavorful as well as spicy eliciting a “mouth hot”. This dish was accompanied by a Donatella Cinelli Colombini, Leone Rosso, 2002, a full bodied chewy Tuscan wine with a deep rich plum color, a fragrant nose, and dense with spice and black cherries en bouche that held its own against this dish.

The dinner ended with “La Dolce Vita” Crèpes with Truffle Honey and fresh Berries and finished with shaved truffles accompanied by Espresso and Grappa D’Uva Bertagnolli, which was a very smooth grappa that warmed the guests who prepared to go out into the very cold New York night.

Viviana Acosta-PadialSome truffle facts that you might find interesting: there are many types of truffles in the world, but only 20 are commonly known. According to Italian law, only 9 are considered important truffles from Italy; of these, only 4 are used in cooking. These highly valuable truffles include: White Truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico, which season is from October 1 until December 31), Black Truffle (Tuber Melanosporum Vitt, November 15 – March 15), Summer Black Truffle also called Scorzone (Tuber Aestivum Vitt, May 1 – November 30) and Bianchetti or Small White Truffle (Tuber Albidium Pico, January 15 – April 30). According to Peter Urbani, the best truffles come from Umbria, and both chefs believe that truffle oil is overused and should be only used as an accent.

The Recipes

Warm New England Oysters Florentine with Moscato, Thyme Butter and Grated Tartufi Neri

Ingredients for 4 people

24

 

beautiful oysters

60

grams

tartufi neri

2

ounces

finely chopped shallots

7

ounces

spinach, cleaned

ounces

cold butter, cubes

 

 

cracked black pepper

 

 

sea salt

2

cups

Moscato

teaspoons

lemon juice

Carefully open the oysters, reserving the juice. In a deep skillet, wilt the spinach with a knob of butter, and season.


Beurre Blanc au Moscato: Reduce 1 cup of Moscato with the shallots in a thick sauté pan, and reduce by half. Strain through a fine mesh. Return the strained juice to the pan. Remove from heat, and whisk in the knobs of butter. Add 1 teaspoon the reserved oyster juice and the lemon juice. Season, and set aside.

Warm the remaining Moscato in a separate sauté pan. When it simmers, add the oysters, and bring to a boil. (Do not cook them only warm them.) Remove from the heat, and store in a towel to keep warm. Transfer spinach to a plate, arrange the oysters on top, and pour the sauce over them. Sprinkle with raw shallots and sexy black truffles.
Umbrian Rabbit Ragout with Roasted Parsnips & Carrots

Even though the word “ragout” comes from the French word “ragouter”, meaning “to get your mouth all hot and bothered”, we will look further than that at this country Italian dish.

2

pounds

raw rabbit loin, cubes (live if you like and are into that sort of thing)

1

cup

flour

 

 

salt and freshly ground black pepper

2

tablespoons

olive oil

½

cup

diced white onion

½

cup

diced white carrot

½

cup

peeked, diced red new potato

½

cup

Roma tomatoes

2

tablespoons

chopped shallots

2

tablespoons

chopped garlic

4

cups

rabbit truffle demi (see other recipe). You could also use any other kind of demi, but it wouldn’t be as good as mine.

Dredge the rabbit in flour, shaking off excess flour. Season with salt and pepper. Sauté the rabbit over medium heat until golden, about 2 minutes, or 2 minutes is you are Italian. Add the onions, carrots, potato, tomatoes, shallots and garlic. Season with salt and pepper. Add the stock/demi, and reduce by half. Add 2 tablespoons of butter, and taste. Now enjoy.

Truffle Rabbit Stock

Makes 2 quarts

3

pounds

Briar Patch Rabbit bones

2

ounces

tomato paste

2

cups

chopped onion

1

cup

chopped celery

1

cup

chopped carrots

7

ounces

truffle juice

3

cups

dry red wine (1 cup is for the chef to drink, use only 2 for the stock)

1

teaspoon

salt

10

 

garlic cloves

For the Bouquet Garni: (tie contents in a bundle of cheesecloth)

2

sprigs

thyme

2

 

bay leaves

10

 

peppercorns

3

sprigs

parsley

6

quarts

bottled Italian water, you could use normal water of you like

Brown the bones in a 350° F oven for 30 minutes. Lather the bones with the tomato paste. Add the onion, carrot and celery in a pile under the bones. Roast for another 30 minutes. Remove from the onion, and transfer to the stovetop over medium heat. Deglaze the pan with the wine, and mix with a wooden spoon. Now put everything (roasting pan contents and remaining stuff) in a large stock pan, and bring to a boil. Skim the surface for rafts that rise up. Reduce for 2 hours. Strain the stock through a fine mesh, and chill for 8 hours or overnight. Remove any fat rafts from the surface. (Will keep for up to 3 days in the fridge or up to 1 month in the freezer. You can always freeze stock in ice cube trays and put in gallon Ziplock bags for easy use.

© May 2005. Luxury Experience Magazine. www.luxuryexperience.com. All rights reserved. 

 
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