Having experienced the beauty of Aleppo and Latakia, I started to understand how the Silk Road changed the face of what is now Syria, and I was excited to delve deeper into the history of the Silk Road and specifically the cities of Palmyra and Damascus, Syria.

Not only was I visiting two very important stops along the Silk Road, I was also looking forward to experiencing history firsthand through the ruins in Palmyra, and visiting one of the oldest cities in the world, Damascus. 

The city of Palmyra is located in the center of Syria just over 210km (130 miles) northeast of Damascus. Its central location made it an essential stop for Silk Road caravans crossing the desert, and although Palmyra was lost due to an earthquake in the 1600's, it was rediscovered in the 1920's, and was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.   

Palmyra - Sightseeing   

I felt that one of the best ways to experience the ancient ruins of Palmyra was on the back of a camel the way that Silk Road Caravans would have experienced it, and a mode of transportation still used today. I found a local company, Mohammad Al Ali Camel Rides , which was within walking distance from where I was staying, and was excited that the rides went through the heart of the Palmyra, Syria ruins. 

Mohammad Al Ali Camel Rides

Excited, and with a bit of trepidation, I approached the "rent-a-camel" for a 45-minute ride through the ruins. Following a brief explanation to stand next to the kneeling camel and to wait until an attendant was available to ready the camel for my mount, I eagerly followed the instructions. I keenly noted, during the brief instructions, that camels have an interesting disposition where they like to show their teeth and roar, and an ugly sounding roar at that. Thus, I just smiled at my camel and watched for the attendant before making any moves. 

Edward Riding His Camel

Once the attendant arrived, he promptly placed his foot on top of the bent leg of the camel to secure the camel while I climbed into the seat, as I would definitely not classify what I sat on as a saddle. My camel tour meandered through what seemed to be endless ancient ruins where I had the opportunity to see such historic sites as the Temple of Bel and the Colonnade of the Decumanus. To read more about Riding a Camel in Palmyra, Syria please visit the Adventures section. 

Camel Tour Passing Ruins in Palmyra, Syria

Mohammad Al Ali Camel Rides
Palmyra, Syria
Telephone:        + 963.99.9521 228
Website:            www.Mohammadalali.webs.com  

View of Zenobia Charm Palace

Among the many sites that you can walk among, is the Colonnade of Decumanus with its row after row of pillars, which originally stretched for almost 1.5km (1 mile) and consisted of more than 1,500 Corinthian columns. Still remaining are the Monumental Arch, which was restored, the Senate House, The Theatre, where I experienced another memorable evening of music and dance to celebrate the history of the Silk Road in Syria, and the Agora (a location where villagers would assemble for the military, or during times of peace, it would be used as a marketplace).  

Nighttime at the Colonnade of Decumanus

The most famous occupant of the area was Queen Zenobia who ruled the area from the late 260s until Romans captured her in 272. Her dynamic personality and strong rule created a lasting mark on the area, and resulted in many "tall tales" that have been handed down from generation to generation. 

The Pride of the Desert

Also still standing strong and steady is the Temple of Baal Shamin, and although there is not a lot of information available about the worship of the Phoenician God Baal Shamin, the Temple remains as a lasting memorial. 

Temple of Baal Shamin

One of the more interesting sights was the Tower Tomb built in what has become known as the Valley of the Tombs. The Tower Tomb is open for tours and is magnificent seen from the outside and even more so from the inside. Once inside, you can see how they laid the mummified bodies to rest horizontally along stacked rows, which could represent multiple generations of a family. Each row within a column would contain a relief sculpture of the individual, cast when the person was in their late teens or early twenties to represent the person's finest look. Also found within the Tower Tomb are the remains of colorful mosaics that depict different stories such as the story of Achilles. 

Tower Tomb

A form of early entrepreneurship developed when family members would sell their designated row in the tomb, thus allowing individuals who were not of the "right" class the opportunity for burial with the upper class. In addition to selling a row, as the tomb became crowded, they would tilt the mummified remains and would bury them on their right shoulder, thus saving space to allow for the burial of additional remains in the tomb. 

Relief Sculpture

After a long day of riding a camel and exploring the many wonders of Palmyra, I experienced a unique outdoor show held in the ancient Theatre that was once the meeting place for the inhabitants of ancient Palmyra. The over 2-hour event covered the history of Palmyra and the impact of the Silk Road on the area; presented in multiple languages, with English one of the many languages, the stories included a look at the rise in power of Queen Zenobia as well as her capture by the Romans. It was an amazing evening under the stars with the amphitheatre filled to capacity and everyone enjoying the breathtaking scenery of the Theatre as well as the outstanding performances on stage. 

Outdoor Show

Zenobia Cham Palace

Dining in Palmyra 

As part of the celebration of the Silk Road Festival, I had dinner at the Bedouin Corner restaurant in Palmyra, Syria, which featured large outdoor grills cooking Syrian delicacies such as fresh roasted pig with seasoned rice, deep fried falafel, chicken taratore, and kibbeh made with bulgar wheat and minced lamb. 

Bedouin Corner Outdoor Grill

Bedouin Corner Salads   

Bedounin Corner restaurant
Palmyra, Syria 

On the way to Damascus - Sightseeing  

Le Krak de Chevaliers

On my way to Damascus I stopped at Le Krak de Chevaliers (Arabic - Qal'at al-Ḥiṣn), which is one of the most important medieval military castles in the world. The well preserved limestone castle was originally built in 1031 and was occupied by the Crusaders in 1099 before they departed to continue their trek to Jerusalem, and has had a varied list of ‘tenants' who acknowledged its strategic location in defense of the road to the Mediterranean. Built on a hill 650 meters (2132 feet) above sea level, the fortress had an enhanced tactical position, and spans over 3000 square meters.   

Le Krak de Chevaliers Interior

Le Krak de Chevaliers was rebuilt by the Crusaders to be the largest Crusader fortress in the Holy Land with 3 meter (9 feet 11 inches) thick walls and seven towers for the guards that were each eight to ten meters (26 to 33 feet) thick. Within the massive structure, there is a meeting hall, chapel, and an enormous 120 meter (394 feet) storage room to accommodate over 5,000 soldiers and their horses at the height of the fortress's existence, and it was believed that the fortress could withstand a siege of over five-years.  

Le Krak de Chevaliers Storage Room

Le Krak de Chevaliers Winding Halls

Le Krak de Chevaliers
Tartous, Syria  

Continuing my drive to Damascus I stopped at the Mar Takla Monastery in Ma ‘loula (Maalula), Syria, which is just 50km (31 miles) north of Damascus. The village of Ma ‘loula is mainly Christian and is it believed to be the only place in the world where they still speak Aramaic, the language of Jesus.  

Ma 'loula

There were two ways to reach the monastery, one by foot through a long and winding road carved into the face of the mountain, and the other is by automobile into the center of the village; I opted for the true experience and took the walk along the entranceway cut into the mountain. 

Walking to the Monastery

The story goes that the daughter of a Seleucid prince, Thecla, who was also a disciple of St. Paul, retreated to this area when she was being persecuted, and is buried in the mountain that overlooks the monastery.  

Chapel at Mar Takla Monastery

Upon reaching the village, I was able to walk through the Mar Takla Monastery with its many different rooms. Of particular interest was the unique room built around a tree that has grown through the ceiling and extends its arms out to the world. 

Tree Growing in the Room

Convent of St. Takla

Mar Takla Monastery
Ma ‘loula, Syria
Website:   www.sacred-destinations.com/syria/maalula 

Discovering Damascus  

Once I arrived in Damascus, I was excited to see that Old Damascus was alive and vibrant as the weather was warm and the night air was still. Damascus is the capital, and the second largest city behind Aleppo and it is one of the oldest cities in the world dating back to the seventh millennium BC. 

I stayed at the luxurious and newly renovated 12-room and suite Beit Zafran Hotel de Charme located in the heart of Old Damascus. Painstakingly renovated from an 1860's Ottoman mansion, the attention to detail from the foyer to the walls and alcoves, to the fountains in the center of the public area, and each room, is a testament to comfort and luxury. 

Beit Zafran Foyer

My well-appointed guestroom featured a king bed, a large armoire, a desk with a hotel laptop set up with free high-speed wireless Internet access and a handwritten welcome note from the General Manager, a fresh fruit plate arranged on a table flanked by two chairs in front of a large ornate window. In-room amenities included an in-room safe, a mini-bar, complimentary shoe service, slippers, and Frette robes. The spacious marble bathroom featured a sink, combination tub and a shower with an oversized rain showerhead, a hairdryer, a towel warmer, and L'Occitane amenities. 

Beit Zafran Courtyard

Other amenities at this 100% smoke-free hotel include the Shal lounge with its 9-meter (30 feet) decorative ceilings where you can relax, read a book, or enjoy a cocktail, glass of wine, tea, or Arabic coffee., and the Liwan sitting area off the courtyard. Dining options include the roof terrace La Veranda restaurant for breakfast or dinner, or an elegant dinner at the Mooneh restaurant in the vaulted cellar. 

Beit Zafran Liwan Sitting Area    

Beit Zafran Hotel de Charme
Bab Touma - Haret Boolad
P.O. Box 31109
Damascus, Syria
Telephone:     +963 (11) 54386760/1/2/3
Fax:                +963 (11) 5443957
E-mail:            This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
Website:         www.BeitZafran.com 

Map of Old Damascus

Old Damascus is surrounded by the remains of the ancient city walls that helped act as landmarks as I navigated the honeycomb roads and walkways that made up the old city. I walked along the streets and found the long covered section that led into the Suq al-Hamidiye where you can find virtually anything that you are looking for from fresh nuts, jewelry, linens, soaps, spices, handmade wares, and more, a kaleidoscope of colors and aromas that heightened my senses.  

Ancient Archway to Old Damascus

I sampled some fresh nuts and I must say that the pistachio nuts were the largest and tastiest that I have ever eaten. A stroll along the spice booths proved to be a bit of a sensory overload while the colors were beyond description. The suq was bustling with activity with the young and old actively searching out their specialty shops.  

Shopping in Sug al-Hamidiye

The narrow walkways converged with pedestrians, cars, and hand-drawn wagons at select intersections creating a minor traffic jam, but life never slows down in the suq, it just pauses for a slight redirection and then continues. It was truly an amazing walk through the suq; one that created lasting memories of how life was in the past and still is today. 

Shopping in Sug al-Hamidiye

Tony Stephan in Store Loom

During my walk through the suq, I came across the clothing shop Tony Stephan (Articles Orientaux) that had some interesting silk ties, shirts, and more on display. In addition, they had their own loom in the backroom where they produced products by hand.  

Tony Stephan Handmade Products

Tony E. Stephan
149 Hamidieh Bazaar
Damascus, Syria
Telephone:       +963 11 2251075   

Chaldean Catholic Church

Chaldean Catholic Church
Bab Touma - Christian Quarter of Old Damascus
Damascus, Syria 

Saint Ananias is a small chapel also located in the Christian Quarter of Old Damascus just off the Straight Street. The chapel is located below ground and has been rebuilt many times over the centuries; it was originally the House of Ananias. It was Ananias who assisted St. Paul to regain his sight and who helped convert St. Paul to Christianity. 

Saint Ananias

Sculpture at Saint Ananias

Saint Ananias
Christian Quarter of Old Damascus
Damascus, Syria
Website:           www.sacred-destinations.com/syria/damascus  

Khan Asa'ad Bacha mosque

Khan Asa'ad Bacha mosque
Damascus, Syria  

The Azem Palace was built in Old Damascus by As'ad al-Azem in 1749 AD and the massive 5,500 sq meter (59,200 square feet) building is one of the earliest examples of domestic Damascus architecture. The Azem Palace is believed to be built over the grounds of the Golden Palace of Tangiz Mamluk. Tradition has it that the Golden Palace was built over the remains of the Green Palace of the first Umayyad of Damascus, which in turn was built over the Byzantine, Roman, and Hellenistic ruins of the classic city.     

The Azem Palace - Antique Carriage 

The Azem Palace has many different and elegantly decorated rooms to tour, and along with the exquisite artisanship, there are gardens and areas where they hold live performances. The Azem Palace was divided into four main sections, the haramlik (family section), the salamlik (business and public reception section), the khadamlik (servants quarters), and the hammam (baths section). 

Room at The Azem Palace

The Azem Palace had sixteen great halls, nineteen rooms on the ground floor, nine rooms on the second floor, a basement for storage, a prayer wing, and a stable and carriage area. 

The Azem Palace - Courtyard

The Azem Palace
Old Damascus
Damascus, Syria  

Located near The Azem Palace is the Umayyad mosque (Omayyad mosque), which is also in Old Damascus. The Umayyad Mosque, also known as the Grand Mosque of Damascus, is one of the largest, oldest, and holiest mosques in the world. Within the walls of the Umayyad mosque, you can visit the tomb of Saladin and the shrine said to hold the head of St. John the Baptist.  

Umayyad mosque Courtyard

The Umayyad mosque is said to be built on grounds that have been considered sacred for more than 3,000 years.  Upon entering the Grand Mosque, you are required to remove your shoes. Women must wear long sleeves and long skirts or pants, as well as wear a scarf on their heads. Shorts are prohibited for men or women; appropriate garments are available to use if needed. 

Tomb of Salah Aldin al-Ayoubi 

I walked across the grand courtyard to the massive prayer hall and sat down on the extensive carpeting while I watched the Muslim worshipers enter and pray. The ornate center shrine and chapel within the prayer hall is dedicated to St. John the Baptist and was the center of a lot of activity.     

Prayer Hall  

Umayyad mosque - Courtyard

Umayyad mosque
Old Damascus
Damascus, Syria 

Walking along the walls that surround Old Damascus I came upon the Citadel of Damascus, built in 1075 and encloses an area of 160 - 240 meters (520 - 790 feet). The citadel was renovated between 1206 - 1216 to incorporate a new defense structure and has experienced sporadic renovations since that time. Though only captured once in 1239, the Citadel continued to be a strategic fortress within Damascus until the early 20th century when it became a prison to more than 4,000 inmates. 

Citadel of Damascus

Citadel of Damascus

Citadel of Damascus
Old Damascus
Damascus, Syria
Website:           www.OldDamascus.com/castle.htm  

I also visited the National Museum of Damascus, located just outside of Old Damascus, which contains two wings of archaeological and historical artifacts collected throughout Syria. The entranceway façade incorporates the transplanted gateway of Qasr al-Heir al-Gharbi, a deserted castle near Palmyra. 

Entranceway Façade at National Museum

Inside the Museum, the east wing contains Byzantine and Classical artifacts while the west wing houses the pre-classical and Arab Islamic collections. One of the featured exhibits is the fully reassembled 2nd-century synagogue from Dura-Europos, as well as the original small clay tablets containing the oldest alphabet in the world from Ugarit. 

Exhibit at National Museum

Sculpture on the Grounds of National Museum

National Museum of Damascus
Al Jamiaa Street
Damascus, Syria
Telephone:       +963 11 2228566
Website:           www.sacred-destinations.com/syria/damascus-national-museum.htm 

Dining in Damascus 

I had the opportunity to have both breakfast and dinner at the roof terrace La Veranda restaurant at the exquisite Beit Zafran Hotel de Charme in Damascus. The weather was perfect and the lofty space provided with me with outstanding views of Damascus, and I savored the changing view with the hour as much as I savored the cuisine. 

La Veranda 

For breakfast, I indulged in a variety of delicacies including homemade granola made with a delectable blend of pumpkin seeds, linseeds, sunflower seeds, golden raisins, shredded coconut, toasted sesame, almond slices, apple and orange juice, oatmeal, and honey. I also had homemade bircher muesli made with apples, oatmeal, sugar, lemon juice, and milk; and mamouniah made with butter, semolina, sugar, and cinnamon. 

Breakfast

Further indulgences included fresh rolls and croissants, sliced meats and cheeses, a selection of olives, yogurt balls in oil, a bowl of fresh cut fruit, fresh squeezed orange juice, Arabic coffee, and as an additional treat, an omelette filled with melted cheese.  

Omelette

After a wonderful day of exploring, I returned to the restaurant for dinner, where I began with four traditional "mezze" salads of hummus, creamy garlic spread, tabouli, and chopped fresh greens with sliced tomatoes and onions.  

Tabouli

I continued with a large stuffed mushroom filled with cooked onions, carrots, and peppers, and garnished with a sprig of mint, and a traditional Damascene dish of Sheikh El Mehshi, which was stuffed zucchini filled with ground beef. This course was paired with a 2008 Chateau Ksara from the Bekaa Valley, which was a nice deep red Cabernet Franc from Lebanon with 13.5% abv that elicited intense spices on the nose, and heavy tannins on the palate.    

Stuffed Mushroom

The gastronomic evening closed with a spectacular dessert of spun sugar, currants in clotted cream in a basket of toasted coconut, rose jelly sauce, and cheese cake, which was a lovely ending to a day of discovering Damascus.

Dessert 

Beit Zafran Hotel de Charme
Bab Touma - Haret Boolad
P.O. Box 31109
Damascus, Syria
Telephone:     +963-11-54386760/1/2/3
Fax:                +963-11-5443957
Email:             This e-mail address is being protected from spam bots, you need JavaScript enabled to view it
Website:        www.BeitZafran.com   

See You In Syria

Important Information for Syria 

Visitors are required to have a passport and a visa.  Visas must be obtained prior to arrival in Syria from a Syrian diplomatic mission located in the traveler's country of residence.  Persons planning to visit neighboring countries while in Syria (even for a short day trip) should apply for a multiple entry visa.  

Visit the Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic, 2215 Wyoming Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, Telephone (202) 232-6313, or check the web pages of the Syrian Ministry of Tourism, www.SyriaTourism.org, or the Syrian Embassy, www.SyriaEmbassy.us/ for the most current visa information.  

The currency of Syria is the Syria Pound (SYP). As of October 2010, the exchange rate was 1 US Dollar (USD) to 46 Syria Pound (SYP), and 1 Euro (EUR) to 62 Syria Pounds (SYP). 

Syria Pound banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1000 pounds. Coin denominations are 1, 2, 5, 10, and 25 pound coins. 

Electricity is 220 volts/50 cycles. Bring a converter if your appliances do not have dual voltage and 2-round pin plug adapters. 

Read other articles on Syria in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts, Restaurants, Chefs' Recipes , and Adventures sections. 

For information on Syria, please visit the website: www.SyriaTourism.org.