 History has always fascinated me, which was my inspiration to trace parts of the Silk Road in Syria at the annual Silk Road Festival. My travels began in the city of Aleppo, the final destination of the ancient caravans that traveled from Asia and Mesopotamia along what was called the Silk Road. The sights and cultural experiences that I encountered in Syria, first in Aleppo, and later in Latakia, Palmyra, and Damascus, left me with lasting memories of the beauty and the hospitality of the country.
The government of Syria, officially known as the Syria Arab Republic, created the annual Silk Road Festival in 2002 to commemorate the ancient Silk Road Caravans that traveled through Syria. At the end of September 2010, I flew to Syria to experience the festival and the culture of the country. Knowing that this would not be a short trip, I selected one of the premier Middle-Eastern airlines, Air Royal Jordanian, for the 11+ hour flight from New York.
Silk Road Festival
The Royal Jordanian experience began in the comfortable Oasis Lounge at John F. Kennedy International Airport in New York where I was able to unwind with a selection of snacks, cheese and crackers, finger sandwiches, and salads, or a full dinner, as well as a selection of and spirits. Since there would be food service throughout the flight, I had a glass or two of merlot, and some cheese and crackers, which I enjoyed while reading a book.
Once onboard, the in-flight service was flawless as the attendants served a full dinner about an hour after takeoff, a snack a few hours later, and a full breakfast just before we landed in Amman, Jordan. In between the food service, I opted to get some sleep on the overnight flight. From Amman, I took a 90-minute Air Royal Jordanian flight to Aleppo, Syria my first destination.
Air Royal Jordanian
Website: www.RJ.com
Discovering Aleppo
Aleppo, located in the northern part of the country, is Syria's second largest city with a population of +2.4 million, and is one of the oldest inhabited cities in the world, dating to at least 4,000 years since the second millennium BC.
I stayed at the luxurious 199-room and suite Sheraton Aleppo Hotel, conveniently located in the downtown Bab Al Faraj district, and only 15 minutes from Aleppo International Airport.
Sheraton Aleppo Hotel
Staying at the hotel was like sleeping with history, as during the construction of the hotel, which occupies one entire city block, they uncovered ancient ruins that they have preserved and are open for their guests to tour. I enjoyed strolling through the ruins before taking a short walk to the Old City, named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1986.
Ruins at Sheraton Aleppo Hotel
My well-appointed king bed guestroom featured Sheraton's Sweet-Sleeper Bed™, a desk and chair, a comfortable chair to relax and read the complimentary magazines, high-speed wireless Internet access, an in-room safe, a coffee/tea facility, a mini-bar, a separate refrigerator, and a spacious bathroom with hairdryer.
Guestroom
The hotel has a wide selection of restaurants and lounges, Leonardo's featuring Italian cuisine, Ikebana - A Taste of Asia, Al Mawal, a seasonal restaurant featuring Oriental cuisine, Courtyard, also a seasonal restaurant, featuring Oriental cuisine, the Pool Bar, the Lobby Lounge & Bar, Piccadilly English Pub, and The Silk Road, featuring Mediterranean cuisine, where I had an enjoyable buffet dinner.
Other hotel amenities include an outdoor swimming pool, health club, Turkish bath, Jacuzzi, and business center.
Sheraton Aleppo Hotel
Al Khandaq Street
P.O. Box 13964
Aleppo, Syria
Telephone: +963-21-212-1111
Toll-Free: 1-800-325-3535
Fax: +963-21-212-1136
Reservations Email:
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Website: www.StarwoodsHotels.com
Aleppo was an important final destination for the Silk Road, which began in Asia, and in addition to its UNESCO World Heritage Site designation since 1986, the city has seen a resurgence of culture since designated the "Islamic Capital of Culture 2006."
The historic city has much to offer visitors, and I began with a tour of the Citadel of Aleppo, a fortified castle located at the top of a steep hill in the middle of the Old City, believed to be one of the oldest and largest castles in the world.
Citadel of Aleppo
The Citadel stands at an impressive 164 feet (50 meters) above the city and was occupied by the Greeks, the Byzantines, the Ayyubids, and the Mamluks. I stood in awe gazing up at the massive limestone fortress dramatic against a blue sky, with palm trees softening the hard lines of the stone, while trying to comprehend its age, which dates to the first millennium BC.
The Citadel at Night
Touring the Citadel with a guide, I had the opportunity to explore its many halls and rooms, as well as learn fascinating facts about its history and design including the pointed stone figures that line the top of the Citadel walls, that from a distance resembled soldiers wearing helmets to provide the appearance of a larger defense.
Pointed Stone Figures on Walls
Also of interest was a large wood door embellished with horseshoes facing down, with the exception of one horseshoe facing up, as they believed that a single horseshoe facing up caught good luck.
The Good Luck Horseshoe
I also learned how the castle evolved and took on a different cultural position with each "owner," evidenced in the Weapons Hall, and the Byzantine Hall, which are in stark contrast to the elaborate Throne Hall where Mamluk sultans entertained large audiences and held official functions. Restored to its former grandeur, the Throne Room has decorative walls and a magnificent ceiling with an octagonal focal point surrounded by colorful stained glass windows.
The Throne Room
It has a traditional medieval Islamic style hammam where the ruling heads could relax, and includes a changing room, a warm room, and a hot steam room with piped-in hot and cold running water.
Hammam
It is an engineering marvel, especially considering when it was built, as its water supply for the vast moat and for the 3000 inhabitants was provided by a river located 7.5 miles (12 km) north of the city. Another interesting detail of the Citadel is the entrance with its six sharp turns designed to slow intruders' movements thus allowing time for internal defenses to use the openings in the ceiling of the mezzanine to pour hot oil on their enemies. Excavation continues at the Citadel as they unearth new finds providing information on the history of the castle.
Excavation at the Citadel of Aleppo
The Citadel continues to play an important role, especially with the creation of The Theatre, formerly used to house horses, and is now used for musical concerts during the year.
The Theatre
The Citadel of Aleppo is open in winter from 9:00 am until 4:00 pm, in summer from 9:00 am until 6:00 pm, and during Ramadan from 9:00 am until 3:00 pm. The Citadel of Aleppo may be included in a full day tour of Aleppo and Saint Simon, located 37 miles (60 km) outside of Aleppo, or you may purchase individual tickets for entrance to the Castle. Ticket prices vary so please check with your hotel or tour guide. If you would like an English-speaking tour guide, inquire at the ticket booth.
View of Long Entrance Bridge
Citadel of Aleppo
Aleppo, Syria
Website: www.AleppoCitadelFriends.org
Just outside the Citadel is the Old Market (suq) of Aleppo bustling with activity, and is a must with its rich history, culture, colors, and vendors selling clothing, nargillah or shisha (water pipes), handbags, jewelry, spices, food, nuts, and more.
 aleppo, syria.jpg "Old Market of Aleppo, Aleppo, Syria - Ruins on Property - Photo by Luxury Experience")
Old Market of Aleppo
I took my time and enjoyed the beauty of the Old Market and sampled the native pistachio nuts, smelled the spices, and browsed the jewelry stands, as it was all there for my pleasure. I also enjoyed watching the artisans at work where there were often three or more generations of families working together creating their handicrafts.
 
Generations at Work
After a break for lunch at the Kaser Al Wali (see the Dining in Aleppo section below) I toured the Jdeideh (Christian) Quarter. The Ancient City of Aleppo consists of two parts, the Old City and the more recent Jdeideh (Christian) Quarter, with its eclectic architecture from the 15th and 17th centuries.
Saint Assia
I visited the Mar Assia Al-Hakim Syrian Catholic church (Saint Assia), built in the 15th century, and is one of many churches found behind high walls on the winding roads of Aleppo. Hanging on the wall of the church was a grouping of amulets used as religious folk charms for healing purposes and as votive offerings; the charms were frequently attached to altars, shrines, and sacred objects found in places of worship.
Amulets
 Mar Assia Al-Hakim
Salibeh Street
located near the Suq Al-Souf (Wool Market)
Jdeideh Quarter
Aleppo, Syria
I also visited the Eastern Catholic (Maronite) Saint Elias Cathedral, located on al-Farhat Square, that was built in 1873. Its distinctive architecture features two symmetrical towers, a marble entrance, and a dome. It also has a chiming clock on the east tower that plays the Ave Maria every fifteen minutes.
Saint Elias Cathedral
St. Elias Cathedral
Al-Farhat Square
Jdeideh Quarter
Aleppo, Syria
Website: www.Sacred-Destinations.com/Syria/Aleppo-Maronite-Cathedral.htm
In addition to visiting the many historical sites in Aleppo, I wanted to walk the streets and absorb the electricity of everyday life as the people hustled and bustled to open their stores, transport goods, and make a living. One of the interesting sights was that of the juice vendors dressed in traditional costumes with their pots strapped to their backs, selling mulberry and licorice juice. With a bend at the knees and a gentle bow, the vendor would pour you a cup full of their elixir, with each vendor adding their own unique personality to their costume as well as to their presentation.
 
Street Vendor's Elaborate Presentation to Pour a Drink
I went to the opening ceremony for the Silk Road Festival my first evening in Aleppo, which marked the 9th year of the festival. This year's theme was "Syria ... Where Everyone Meets," and what better place to hold the opening ceremony than at the foot of the Citadel of Aleppo, in the city where the Silk Road Caravans ended their long journey from Asia. The ceremony commemorated the Caravans that not only transported silk and other precious commodities from Asia, but also contributed to the infusion of cultures, civilizations, and economies.
Citadel of Aleppo - Silk Road Festival Opening Ceremony
The festivities included speeches, as well as dance and song that told the story about the Silk Road and the three important destinations in Syria for the caravans, Aleppo, Palmyra, and Damascus. International performers came from India, Turkey, Bashkeria, and Spain who told their own stories of how Syria grew from the melding of many cultures.
International Performers at Silk Road Festival Opening Ceremony
Dining in Aleppo
I had a delicious lunch at the Kaser Al Wali (Castle of the Governor), which although opened in 2005, the building is 300 years old and was once the home of the Governor of Aleppo. The restaurant is rich in history as well as traditional food featuring typical Aleppian delicacies.
Kaser Al Wali
The Aleppine region is known for its 17 different kibbeh dishes made with bulgar wheat and minced meat, usually lamb, which vary from restaurant to home cook by the use of different spices, shapes, and cooking techniques of frying, baking, or served raw.
Hummus
I enjoyed sampling the kibbeh, hummus made with chickpeas, sesame tahini, lemon juice, and garlic served with pita bread, garlic cream, babaghanouj made with char-grilled aubergine (eggplant), tahini, olive oil, lemon juice, and garlic; Fakhde Taratore, Sachicha (spicy sausage), and Chicken Taratore.
Stuffed Eggplant
After lunch, I had the opportunity to tour the cellar and learned about the fascinating history of the ancient underground tunnels that linked all of the homes surrounding the Citadel, to ensure the safety of the inhabitants if they had to escape invaders.
Entrance to Underground Tunnel
Kaser Al Wali is open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. Reservations are recommended.
 Kaser Al Wali
Al Arbaaeen Lane
Aleppo, Syria
Phone: +963 21 2224354
Fax: +963 21 2235700
Email:
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Website: www.KaserAlWali.com/
The Sheraton Aleppo Hotel has many dining outlets and I had the pleasure of dining at the restaurant, The Silk Road, which features Mediterranean cuisine, buffet style. In addition to the Aleppine dishes, there was a selection of fresh salads and all of the accoutrements such as olives, tomatoes, filled grape leaves, and more.
The Silk Road
For my main course, I had broiled haddock served in a lemon sauce with a side dish of seasoned rice and a mélange of cooked vegetables, which I paired with a glass of Chateau Ksara Réserve du Couvent, 2007, Bekka Valley, Lebanon. Superbly balanced, this dark ruby aromatic wine was a delectable blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, and Carignan.
Broiled Haddock
The Silk Road restaurant is open daily from 6:00am until 12:00am
Sheraton Aleppo Hotel
Al Khandaq Street
P.O. Box 13964
Aleppo, Syria
Telephone: +963-21-212-1111
Toll-Free: 1-800-325-3535
Fax: +963-21-212-1136
Reservations Email:
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Website: www.StarwoodsHotels.com
Although my time in Aleppo was much too short to appreciate this beautiful city, it was time for me to depart for my next stop, the port city of Latakia. Though not part of the Silk Road, Latakia is a prominent city on the Mediterranean and is the principal port city of Syria.
On the Way to Latakia
On my way to Latakia, I stopped at the Qalaat Semaan ruins that are just 37 miles (60km) from Aleppo, and are one of the many buildings from late Roman and Byzantine times known collectively as the Dead Cities. The church was named after St. Simeon Stylites, a monk in the 5th century who, as the story is told, chained himself to a rock for 37 years where he would preach twice a day and offer advice to people coming from far away.
Qalaat Semaan
The ruin, of one of the largest churches built at that time, was constructed after his death in 459 AD. Qalaat Semaan is a magnificent ruin that features several architectural styles with high arching walls and entranceways, decorative Romanesque columns, and a cruciform comprised of four separate basilica buildings.
Edward at Qalaat Semaan
In the center of the building is the St. Simeon column that is a large round boulder standing 6 feet high (2 meters). The building also contains a U-shaped Monastery, a sacred road called the "Via Sacra" that leads to the Baptistery, and Annexes to the Baptistery.
Saint Simeon's Boulder
Just outside of Latakia is La Cité D' Ougarit (The City of Ugarite)where the oldest alphabet in the world was discovered. The City dates back to 6000 BC and was forgotten until 1928 when it was unearthed by accident by a farmer plowing his land. Along the hill where the city was built they found two temples: one to Baal the "king," son of El, and one to Dagon, the Chthonic god of fertility and wheat.
Origin of the Alphabet
During the extensive excavation, they unearthed a royal palace and 90 rooms laid out around eight enclosed courtyards, many grand private dwellings, and two private libraries dating back to 1200 BC. Within the libraries, they found that there were seven different scripts being used in Ugarite: Egyptian and Luwian hieroglyphs, and Cypro-Minoan, Sumerian, Akkadian, Hurrian, and Ugaritic cuneiform.
Strolling Through The City of Ugarite
Walking among the ruins I could feel time flow through my body, I used my imagination as I looked at areas marked Guard Post, Courtyard, Crown Hall, Banquet Hall, Reception Hall, and Gardens. To imagine that what we know as the written languages that we use to communicate with started within these walls definitely sent a tingle through my spine.
Reception Hall
La Cité D' Ougarit
10 miles( 16 km) north of Latakia, Syria
A short distance from La Cité D' Ougarit, and just 12.5 miles (20km) from Latakia, is the first Geological Museum Dr. Azki Geological Museum in Syria, which opened in 2002. Dr. Azki started the geological museum on the grounds around his home. The museum has two sections that include the open-air museum and an internal museum that houses his collection of geological finds from different locations within Syria.
Edward and Dr. Azki
The internal museum contains three sections: the Fossil section, Mineral section, and Maps section. In addition to tours, Dr. Azki conducts lectures for students and it is his wish that the museum becomes a recognizable scientific, cultural, and tourist site within Syria.
Fossil Section
Dr. Azki Geological Museum
Kismin, Syria
Website: www.Fawazazki.com
Discovering Latakia
Latakia, located in western Syria, 116 miles (186 km) south-west of Aleppo, is the principal port city of Syria, has a population of 650,558, and has been inhabited since the second millennium.
In Latakia, I stayed at the Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia a new beachfront resort with 190 rooms, 42 villas, 14 cabanas, and a selection of dining and entertainment venues. The spacious resort is conveniently located on a peninsula 1.2 miles (2 km) from the center of Latakia, and is easily accessible for guests traveling by sea with its private beach and marina.
Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia
Hotel amenities include WiFi in public areas and villas, 24 hour business center, two outdoor pools, Jacuzzi, steam and massage rooms, fitness and leisure club with fully equipped gymnasium, as well as cardiovascular and weight training with professional instructors.
Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia Lobby
My spacious king bed guestroom had a beautiful view of the marina and the city of Latakia from its private balcony. The room had a desk and comfortable chair, mini-bar, a coffee/tea facility, 2 chairs and a round table off to the side of the bed, a 24" flat-screen TV, a safe in the closet, a large bathroom with a walk-in shower, and hairdryer.
Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia Guestroom
Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia
Blue Beach
P.O. Box 680
Latakia, Syria
Telephone: +963.141.33.0033
Fax: +963.141.33.0034
Email:
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Website: www.Rotana.com
After exploring by land, I thought it was time that I sought out a relaxing boat tour. I took a tour in Mashqita along the banks of one of the seven lakes that surround the area. Unfortunately, the tide was in and the tour of the caves that line the banks was not possible, but I still enjoyed a relaxing ride.
Mashqita Boat Tour
I also visited the Citadel of Salah Ed-Din (Saladin Castle) located 23 miles (37km) from Latakia. The castle was considered one of the more impressive and romantic castles of the medieval period, and was first held by the Phoenicians in 1000 BC, followed by Alexander the Great in 333 BC, the Byzantines in the 10th century AD, the Crusaders in the 12th century AD, and Saladin occupied it in 1188 AD.
Citadel of Salah Ed-Din
The immense castle has many interesting features including an expansive ditch built around the castle as a defense; the ditch runs 500 feet (156 meters) long by 45 - 64 feet (14 - 20 meters wide) and 90 feet (28 meters) deep.
Citadel of Salah Ed-Din Interior
Located on the top of a mountain with a long wall stretching over a mile down into the valley, the Citadel provided a safe haven for villagers who lived on the grounds within the walls. During my visit, there was a special ceremony with guards dressed in period costume on horseback lining the road to the southern entrance, and guards lining the steps to the gated entrance.
Guards Lining Entrance
Citadel of Salah Ed-Din
23 miles (37km) east of Latakia
Haffah, Syria
Dining in Latakia and the Surrounding Area
During my stay at the Afamia Rotana Resort - Latakia I had an excellent dinner at their restaurant, Al Manara featuring international cuisine and themed nightly menus. The Al Manara, an attractive oval shaped, bright and airy contemporary restaurant with cerulean blue walls lined with arched windows on two floors that provide an outdoor feeling indoors, with Mediterranean-style lights hanging from the circular decorative ceiling painted with bright slashes of colors, red, terra cotta, olive, yellow, navy, and sky blue. Intricate wrought iron and wood railings, a large tile floor, and wood chairs with yellow cushions flanking wood tables dressed with linen placemats, and an expansive buffet in the center of the restaurant complete the ambience, or you may order off the à la carte menu.
Al Manara
I selected the buffet where a few of the highlights included traditional mezze of eggplant stuffed with rice, tabouli salad, and marinated green beans with tomatoes, followed by my main course of sliced marinated chicken with sliced almonds, peas, and raisins on a bed of seasoned rice.
 
Tabouli Stuffed Eggplant
Al Manara is open for all day dining with themed dinners throughout the week.
 Afamia Rotana Resort Latakia
Al Manara
Blue Beach
P.O. Box 680
Latakia, Syria
Telephone: +963.141.33.0033
Fax: +963.141.33.0034
Email:
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Website: www.Rotana.com
Just outside Latakia near Mashqita I stopped for lunch at the Royal Hotel Restaurant, where the entranceway is lined with large statues of elephants, lions, and ancient soldiers riding into battle.
Entrance to Royal Hotel Restaurant
The restaurant featured a selection of appetizers "mezze" that include beef tartar, hummus, creamy garlic spread, homemade pita, and kibbeh, and for the main dish I had grilled chicken on a bed of rice.
 
Beef Tartar Kibbeh
Royal Hotel & Restaurant
Telephone: +963-96-777-7080
Email:
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Syria is a country rich with history and culture, and has much for visitors to discover. After I left Aleppo and Latakia, I traveled to Palmyra and Damascus to continue my Silk Road journey and where my imagination soared with my new adventures.
Important Information for Syria:
Note that the weekend in Syria is Friday and Saturday and the work week is Sunday through Thursday.
Visitors are required to have a passport and a visa. Visas must be obtained prior to arrival in Syria from a Syrian diplomatic mission located in the traveler's country of residence. Persons planning to visit neighboring countries while in Syria (even for a short day trip) should apply for a multiple entry visa.
Visit the Embassy of the Syrian Arab Republic, 2215 Wyoming Ave. NW, Washington, DC 20008, telephone (202) 232-6313, or check the web pages of the Syria Ministry of Tourism, www.SyriaTourism.org or the Syrian Embassy, www.SyrianEmbassy.us/ for the most current visa information.
The currency of Syria is the Syria Pound (SYP). As of October 2010, the exchange rate was 1 US Dollar (USD) to 46 Syria Pound (SYP), and 1 (EUR) to 62 Syria Pounds (SYP).
Syria Pound banknotes come in denominations of 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1000 pounds. Coin denominations are 1, 2, 5, 10, and 25 pound coins.
Electricity is 220 volts/50 cycles. Bring a converter if your appliances do not have dual voltage and 2-round pin plug adapters.
Arabic is the official language of Syria, and while many people speak English and French, it is always helpful to have some basic language knowledge when traveling. Please note that in Arabic, certain phrases differ by gender. Example: A man would say, Tosbeho, for Good Night, whereas a woman would say, Tosbeheena. Both responses are provided where noted.
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English
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Arabic
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Basic Vocabulary
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Hi!
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Salam!
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Excuse me (to request something)
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Men fathlek (Men fathleki - female response)
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Excuse me (to pass by)
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Alma'derah
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Good-bye
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Ma'a salama
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Good morning
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Sabah el kheer
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Good evening
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Masaa el kheer
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Good night
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Tosbeho (Tosbeheena - female response)
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How are you?
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Kaifa haloka (Kaifa haloki - female response)
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I am fine, thanks.
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Ana bekhair, shokran.
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And you?
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Wa ant? (Wa anti - female response)
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Good/So-so
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Jayed/'aadee
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Thank you (very much)
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Shokran (jazeelan)
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You're Welcome
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Afwan
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Yes/No
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Aiwa/La
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I am lost.
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Ada'tu tareeqi!
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Where is?
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Ayna ajedu
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Toilets (men)
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Hammam lirrijal
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Toilets (women)
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Hammam linnisa'a
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Travel
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Airport
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Matar
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Bus
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Mahtat Bas
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Car
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Sayyara
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Customs
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Gamarek, Gimrok
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Entry
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Dokhool
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Exit
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Khorooj
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Hotel
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Hotel
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Passport
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Basbor
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Taxi
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Taxi
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Train station
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Mahatat Qitar
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Visa
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Visa
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Shopping
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Big/Small
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Kabeer/ Sagheer
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Do you have ...?
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Andak
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How much is it?
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Kam howa thamanoh? (th is pronounced as in bath)
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It is too much.
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Kteer
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Shops
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Souk
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Days of the Week
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Monday
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yom al-idhnayn
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Tuesday
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yom al-dhaladh
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Wednesday
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yom al-arba'
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Thursday
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yom al-khamis
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Friday
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yom al-jama'a
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Saturday
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yom as-sabt
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Sunday
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yom al-Had
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Health
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Hospital
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Mashfa, Mostashfa
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I feel sick.
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Ana mareed
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I need a doctor.
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Ahtaju tabeeban!
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Pharmacy
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Assaidaliah
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Restaurant
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Mat'am
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Bon Appetit!
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Shahia tayebah!
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Bread
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Khobez
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Buns
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Somen
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Chicken
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Dajjaj
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Fish
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Samak
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Food
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Akal
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Fruit
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Fawakeh
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Meat
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Lahma
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Soup
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Shurba
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Vegetables
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Khudra
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Salt
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Mahl
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Pepper
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Filfil
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Beverages
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Beer
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Beera
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Coffee
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Kahwa
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Ice Tea
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Shay barid
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Soft Drink
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Kazooz, kola
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Sugar
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Sokkar
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Tea
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Shay
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Water
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Maiye (pronounced my)
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Wine
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Nbeet
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Read other articles on Syria in the Destinations, Hotels and Resorts, Restaurants, Chefs' Recipes, and Adventures sections.
 For information on Air Royal Jordanian, please visit the website: www.RJ.com
For more information on Syria, please visit Syria Ministry of Tourism website: www.SyriaTourism.org.
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