Chef
Jean-Louis Gerin of the award-winning Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS
in
Greenwich, Connecticut shares his culinary vision and a delicious
taste
of the restaurant with his tempting recipes for Stone Crab with
Tomato
Crumble, Drunken Red Snapper and Warm Fingerling Potato Salad,
Beef
Cheeks Slowly Braised in Red Wine, with Onion Compote and Foie Gras,
Double-Baked
Vegetable Compote, and My Grandmother's Chocolate Mousse that
will
have you dialing the telephone to make a reservation at the restaurant.
Meeting
with Master Chef Jean-Louis Gerin in late February 2010 before having
dinner at Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS in Greenwich, Connecticut,
I had the opportunity to really get to know this charming chef, although I have
thoroughly appreciated his food for years. Growing
up in France,
Jean-Louis Gerin grew up with an appreciation of good food from his parents and
grandfather. Although his mother cooked every day for the family, it was his
father, who was an amateur cook and only cooked for the family on Sunday, who
inspired him. His father would think about what he would make on Sunday and
then talk about it all week. When Sunday finally arrived, the family eagerly
anticipated the much talked about meal. Cooking, when done well, is an art
form, it is about building up expectations, teasing your guests' palates
beginning with the amuse bouche and leaving them satisfied with the dessert,
and then tempting them yet once again with mignardises so that they will want
just a little bit more; having experienced Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS, Chef
Jean-Louis has indeed learned his craft well.

Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS Dining Room
When he
was 13 years old, he had a summer job at the legendary Michelin three-star
restaurant Auberge du Père Bise, where he was responsible for drying the
Baccarat glassware, a very responsible position for such a young man. Working
with Mr. and Mrs. Bise, who would gently tease him if she heard the glasses
tinkling, asking, "Are you calling me?" that he learned about the art of fine
dining. It was here that he had his first taste of caviar and cheval blanc Bordeaux, and he
remembers Mrs. Bise telling him that she hoped that he would have the
opportunity to drink a lot of it in his life.
Inspired
from his summer experience working with Père Bise, after he completed
his preliminary education, he attended the Hôtelière de Thonon Les Bains
where he received formal restaurant training and a business degree. Upon
graduation, he returned to work at Auberge du Père Bise, followed by
work at Oustau de Beaumanière, another three-star restaurant in France. As if
by fate, he went to work at a new restaurant, Barrière de Clichy, where
he met Guy Savoy, who has become a lifelong friend. Two years later,
Jean-Louis and Guy Savoy opened the restaurant, GUY SAVOY, on Rue Duret
in Paris, where Jean-Louis became Savoy's Chef de Cuisine.
(The new restaurant GUY
SAVOY, a three-star Michelin, is on Rue Troyon in Paris). In 1983, Guy Savoy came to the United States to open a restaurant in Greenwich, Connecticut,
and in 1984, Jean-Louis joined him.

Master Chef Jean-Louis
By
1985, Guy and Jean-Louis agreed that Jean-Louis should purchase the restaurant,
and named it Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS. Through another stroke of fate, on Mondays
when the well-known restaurateur René Chardain would close his own restaurant,
he would come with his wife to dine at Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS. After a time, it
occurred to Mr. Chardain that perhaps it would be interesting for Jean-Louis to
meet his daughter, Linda. The meeting was very successful; he married Linda in 1986. The couple has two
sons, one who has a great palate, and one who loves to play in the kitchen, so
perhaps there will be another chef in the family some day.
Although
she is the general manager of Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS, Linda is no stranger to
the kitchen, as she was trained as a chef and was her father's sous chef.
Together, they have built a fine reputation for their intimate restaurant,
where the ambience is attractive and welcoming, and has garnered many accolades
and awards throughout the years. His many achievements include Maitre
Cuisiner de France - Chevalier du Mérite Agricole (Master Chef of France) 2001;
Best Chef Northeast "James Beard Foundation 2006; and The Silver Toque,
Master Chef of France 2009 which holds a place of honor on the Chef-Bar at
the restaurant.

Master Chef Jean-Louis and Linda Gerin
Chef
Jean-Louis graciously shares his delicious recipes for a five-course menu. Bon
Appetit!
Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS Menu
Stone Crab with Tomato Crumble
Drunken
Red Snapper and Warm Fingerling Potato Salad
Beef
Cheeks Slowly Braised in Red Wine
with Onion Compote and Foie Gras
Double-Baked
Vegetable Compote
My
Grandmother's Chocolate Mousse
Stone
Crab with Tomato Crumble
Serves
4
Ingredients:
4
|
Tablespoons
|
Olive
Oil
|
4
|
Medium
|
Yellow
Onions, peeled, halved, and sliced about ¼" thick
|
6
|
Tablespoons
|
Butter,
softened, plus more as needed for caramelizing onions
|
1
|
Sprig
|
Thyme
|
|
|
Salt
and Freshly Ground Black Pepper
|
5
|
Medium
|
Plum
Tomatoes, or 1.5 cups drained diced tomatoes
|
2/3
|
Cup
|
All-Purpose
Flour
|
¼
|
Cup
|
Ground
Blanched Almonds
|
½
|
Teaspoon
|
Fleur
de Sel .
|
4-8
|
|
Stone
Crab Claws, cooked and shells partially removed (1-2 per person)
|
Method: Heat three tablespoons of the olive oil in a
large skillet over medium heat. Add onions, thyme, salt and pepper to taste,
and cook, stirring occasionally, until onions are caramelized and dark brown,
about 45 minutes. Note that as onions start to brown, it may be necessary to
reduce heat to medium-low, stir more frequently, and add a knob or two of
butter in order to prevent burning. Set caramelized onions aside.
Meanwhile,
preheat oven to 350° F and, if using fresh plum tomatoes, bring a medium pot of
water to a rolling boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set near stove.
Using the point of a sharp paring knife, remove and discard stem end and cut an
‘X' into other end of each tomato. Submerge one or two tomatoes into the
boiling water for 10-15 seconds or until skin begins to peel off. Using a
slotted spoon, quickly transfer the tomatoes into a bowl of ice water. Repeat
process with remaining tomatoes. Peel skins off tomatoes and discard, and then
cut tomatoes in half lengthwise, and scoop out and discard seeds. Cut tomato
halves in thirds lengthwise to form approximately ½" strips.
Mix
flour and ground almonds in a medium bowl. Use your fingers to mix in 5
tablespoons of the softened butter until just incorporated.
Method
for the Stone Crab: Dust with soft spices and reheat slowly with a
soupcon of butter and olive oil.
Drunken
Red Snapper and Warm Fingerling Potato Salad
Serves
4
Ingredients:
6
|
Large
|
Fingerling
Potatoes
|
4
|
|
Red Snapper Fillets, skin on
|
|
|
Salt
and Freshly Ground White Pepper
|
2
|
Cups
|
White
Wine
|
½
|
Medium
|
Yellow
Onion, peeled and finely chopped
|
4
|
Tablespoons
|
Butter
|
2
|
Tablespoons
|
Heavy
Cream
|
8
|
Leaves
|
Romaine
Lettuce
|
|
|
Chopped
Chives for garnish
|
Method:
Place potatoes in a medium pot of heavily salted water, bring to a simmer over
medium-high heat, and simmer until potatoes are cooked through, 10-12 minutes.
Drain, peel, and cut potatoes into ¼"-thick slices. Set aside.
Season
flesh-side of fish with salt and white pepper and set aside (do not season
skin-side). Bring 1½ cups of the white wine to a boil in a wide sauté pan large
enough to fit all four red snapper fillets. Boil thirty seconds to remove the
alcohol, and then add the onions and the red snapper fillets (skin-side up).
Cover and reduce heat to low. Simmer until the fish is cooked and the skin is
shiny, about 5 minutes. Remove fish from the pan, set aside, and loosely cover
with aluminum foil. Increase heat to medium-high and boil fish cooking liquid
until reduced in volume by half, 4-5 minutes. Transfer liquid (with onions) to
blender or food processor and blend with the butter and 4 slices of potato
until smooth.
Bring
remaining wine to a boil in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the
remaining slices of potato, and heat. Add the heavy cream and the blended fish
cooking liquid, and carefully stir to mix well and allow to heat through, but
do not boil.
Presentation: Place two romaine leaves on
each plate. Divide potatoes evenly among plates, then top potatoes with the red
snapper. Drizzle fish with emulsified sauce and sprinkle with chives.
Beef
Cheeks Slowly Braised in Red Wine, with Onion Compote and Foie Gras
Serves
4
Ingredients:
1
|
750-milliter
bottle
|
Red
Wine
|
2
|
Sprigs
|
Thyme
|
2
|
|
Beef
cheeks, or 1 2-pound piece beef brisket (about 1" thick), with some of fat
cap left untrimmed
|
4
|
Tablespoons
|
Olive
Oil
|
1-3
|
Tablespoons
|
Butter
|
1
|
Tablespoon
|
Minced
Garlic
|
1
|
|
Bay
Leaf
|
1
|
Cup
|
Veal
Stock (see note)
|
3
|
Medium
|
Yellow
Onions, peeled, halved, and thinly sliced (to make about 4 cups)
|
4
|
Slices
|
fresh
foie gras (see note)
|
Method: Preheat oven to 325° F. Bring
wine and thyme to a boil in a medium saucepan set over high heat. Boil until
reduced by half (to about 1½ cups), about 15 minutes, then set aside.
Pat
beef cheeks or brisket dry with paper towel, then season with salt and pepper
on flesh (not fatty) side. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil with 1 tablespoon
butter in a medium, heavy-bottomed pot set over medium-high heat. Brown meat
well all over, starting with fatty side down and finishing with fatty side up,
about 5 minutes per side. Without removing meat from the pot, pour off and
discard fat. Return pot to medium-high heat and add the reduced red wine,
garlic, and bay leaf. When liquid boils, add the veal stock. Bring to a boil, and
then transfer pot to the oven. Cook uncovered for half an hour, and then cover
and continue cooking until meat is extremely tender, 2½-3 hours.
Method
to Caramelize the Onions:
Heat remaining 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large sauté pan set over medium
heat. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until deep brown in
color, 30-45 minutes. If onions start to dry out, add a knob or two of butter
and stir more frequently.
Presentation: Slice the beef cheeks or
brisket. Layer slices of meat with caramelized onion and foie gras in each of
four bowls. Adjust seasoning of the cooking sauce to taste with salt and
pepper, and drizzle over the foie gras.
Note:
At the restaurant, we of course use our rich homemade veal stock! However, if
you don't make your own, this recipe works well with the "Perfect Additions"
brand of frozen veal stock; merely defrost the stock and use it full strength
(do not dilute, despite what it may say on the container). Slices of fresh foie
gras can be found at most gourmet markets - use as much or as little as
desired!
Double-Baked
Vegetable Compote
Serves
6
Ingredients:
½
|
Cup +
1 Tablespoon
|
Olive
Oil
|
¼
|
Cup
|
Minced
Garlic (about 7 cloves)
|
2
|
Medium
|
Yellow
Onions, peeled and cut into ½" - 1" pieces
|
1
|
|
Bay
Leaf
|
2
|
Sprigs
|
Fresh
Thyme
|
1
|
Tablespoon
|
Ground
Allspice
|
1
|
Medium
|
Yellow
Squash, cut into ½" - 1" pieces
|
1
|
Medium
|
Zucchini,
cut into ½" - 1" pieces
|
½
|
Medium
|
Eggplant,
peeled and cut into ½" - 1" pieces
|
1
|
14.5
Ounce
|
Can
Diced Tomatoes, drained
|
1
|
12
Ounce
|
Jar
Roasted Red Peppers, drained, and peppers cut into ½" - 1" pieces
|
|
|
Salt
and Freshly Ground Black Pepper
|
6
|
|
Plum
Tomatoes
|
½
|
Cup
|
Chopped
Mixed Fresh Herbs, such as parsley, chives, and scallions
|
Method:
Preheat oven to 350° F. Heat ½ cup of the olive oil in a large pot over
medium-high heat. Add garlic and cook until just starting to turn lightly
golden, about 2 minutes. Add the onions, bay leaf, thyme, and allspice, and
cook, stirring frequently, until softened and starting to turn translucent,
about 5 minutes. Add the yellow squash, zucchini, eggplant, and cook, stirring
occasionally, about 10 minutes. Add drained diced tomatoes and roasted red
peppers, stir, and place pot in oven. Bake, stirring every 10 minutes, until
vegetables are fully cooked, about 45 minutes. Let cool and refrigerate
overnight.
The
following day, prepare the plum tomatoes: bring a medium pot of water to a
rolling boil. Prepare a large bowl of ice water and set near stove. Using the
point of a sharp paring knife, remove and discard stem end and cut an ‘X' into
other end of each tomato. Submerge tomatoes, 2-3 at a time, into the boiling
water for 10-15 seconds or until skin of tomatoes begins to peel off near the
‘X'. Using a slotted spoon, quickly transfer tomatoes into bowl of ice water.
Peel skins off tomatoes and discard, then cut tomatoes in half lengthwise and
scoop out and discard seeds. Cut tomato halves lengthwise into approximately ¼"
strips, then cut strips crosswise to form approximately ¼" square pieces.
Heat
the remaining 1-tablespoon of olive oil in a large saute pan over medium-high
heat. Add the ratatouille, season to taste with salt and pepper, and cook,
stirring occasionally, until excess liquid is evaporated, about 20 minutes.
Fold in the plum tomatoes and herbs, and cook until heated through, 1-2
minutes. Serve warm.
My
Grandmother's Chocolate Mousse
Serves
6
Ingredients:
3 ½
|
Ounces
|
High-quality
Bitter Chocolate (unsweetened 70% cocoa butter), such as Valrhona
|
7
|
Ounces
|
Semi-sweet
Chocolate Chips (50% cocoa butter)
|
1 ½
|
Cups
|
Granulated
Sugar
|
1 ½
|
Cups
|
Egg
Whites (about 10 eggs) pasteurized preferred
|
Method:
Melt chocolates together in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of just-simmering
water.
In a
large bowl, beat the egg whites, starting on low speed and gradually increasing
to high speed, until they form soft, wet peaks. Gradually sprinkle in sugar and
continue to beat on high speed until whites are firm and glossy.
Remove
the bowl of melted chocolate from the pot of water and whisk in one third of
the beaten egg whites. Gently fold in remaining whites in thirds until mixture
is homogenous. If desired, divide mousse evenly into individual serving bowls.
Cover and refrigerate overnight.
Note:
It is not absolutely essential to use a high-quality bitter chocolate, but the
texture of the mousse will be much more luxurious if you do! Using a lower-quality unsweetened chocolate
such as Baker's will give the mousse a slightly chalky texture.
Please
note that this chocolate mousse is incredibly light and simple, it must be
refrigerated 2 days before serving, and kept covered with plastic wrap.
Presentation: Use a warm soupspoon. Do not
try to make perfect quenelle, simply scoop and serve quickly.
Restaurant
JEAN-LOUIS is open for lunch Monday through Friday from Noon until 2:00 pm, and for dinner Monday through
Saturday from 5:45 pm.
Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS
Read
about Restaurant JEAN-LOUIS in the Restaurants
section.
Restaurant
JEAN-LOUIS
61 Lewis Street
Greenwich, Connecticut
06830
United States
Telephone: +1-203-622-8450
Email:
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Website: www.RestaurantJEANLOUIS.com
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|